I'm a retired CPA living in Western Canada. I enjoy travelling, reading and discussing current events. With this blog, I hope to share experiences and create conversations that are relevant to our time.
We are all familiar with the school yard bully. He usually exerted physical dominance and was in a habit of getting what he wanted by threatening and abusing others. He surrounded himself with people who were either like minded or they were themselves intimidated and fell into line behind the bully.
The bully succeeded for a number of reasons. Some of his victims avoided him while others were content to stand by as the bully harassed other kids. The “so long as it’s not happening to me” scenario. Some kids tried to be nice to the bully, some even praised him for his power, and rationalized how he really wasn’t such a bad guy once you got to know him. Probably best to appease the bully and perhaps he would just go away or at least leave me alone.
The policy of appeasement is not restricted to the playground because a bully grows up and acts the same way as an adult.
Europe and the West appeased Russia for years and now the Ukraine is feeling the full affects of a bully flexing his empowered muscles. How could the World not see this coming? There was Georgia and then the Crimea. Each time the West was outraged and implemented some modest sanctions that ultimately meant nothing. The pattern of abuse by Russia was clear. Perhaps the ultimate insult to victims everywhere was when a United States President legitimized the bully by praising and, thereby, further empowering him.
So how did Russia get into a position to capitalize on the policy of appeasement? Oil and natural gas.
The Russian economy is abysmal in relation to the size of their population. They make up about 2% of the World economy which is the same as Canada but they have almost 4 times the population of Canada. The substantial Russian oil and natural gas revenues have benefited their leader and the Oligarchs. The Russian people continue to suffer under Communism and they do not share in the oil and natural gas wealth. It is this wealth that has financed the war on other sovereign countries.
Given the Russian history under their current leader, how could Europe become dependent on Russian oil and natural gas and at the same time the United States and Canada made no meaningful objections? In fact, the United States and Canada import Russian oil.
A number of pipelines flow from Russia through the Ukraine to Europe and the Nord Stream pipeline carries natural gas from Russia to Germany under the Baltic Sea. The Germans liked the idea so much they agreed to a parallel line called Nord Stream 2. The second line is complete but certification is on hold given the Russian unprovoked attack on the Ukraine. Will future Russian appeasement see the Nord Stream 2 line operational?
The political influences of socialist policies in Germany has lead to the closure of their nuclear power plants. The hope for sustainable wind and solar power is but a dream when you consider the demand for power. Hence the dependence on Russian oil and natural gas. The same political influences exist in the United States and Canada where the Keystone Pipeline has been cancelled and new energy projects are draped in red tape and propaganda that insists oil is dirty. A west to east pipeline in Canada is shunned while Ontario and Quebec rely on foreign oil from jurisdictions that do not adhere to the same standards our Canadian companies must operate in.
It is worth noting that the current Russian sanctions by the United States and Europe do not mention Russian oil and natural gas. Does the appeasement effectively continue?
Sadly, we watch the Ukraine being devastated by a bully and the only way we can assist is by hurting Russia economically. The Ukrainian people must fight for their own destiny as do the Russian people. If they want something better it is up to them.
It is time to recognize the Russian leader for what he is and isolate him and his friends financially such that he is not in a position to wage war on innocent people. This isolation must continue long after the current conflict has subsided and the policy of appeasement must stop.
Anyone born in rural Saskatchewan before 1950 most likely took their education in a one room schoolhouse. My parents and their siblings fell into this category and attended one room schools in the Wallwort and Everton School Districts.
The grade levels were small in number and the teachers had to provide education to a diverse group of students, both in age levels and in learning abilities. Can you imagine being the teacher in these situations? How could they keep all the students engaged as they tried to cover the lessons? In addition, students missed many school days because they were needed to work at home or the winter weather prevented them from getting to school. My father spoke of times when the weather was really cold and their family didn’t have enough warm clothes for all the children to go to school on the same day.
One rural school teacher was Eugene Anderson and he taught for 14 years at Everton from about 1940 to 1954. My mother and her siblings attended his classes and spoke very highly of the education they received and loved his focus on athletics. There was considerable competition between school districts and the annual field days brought out the best in the student athletes. I recall my mother telling me the pride they had in “besting” the other schools and the credit was given to Mr. Anderson for preparing them for the events.
For many young people of the era, formal school ended at grade 8 as they needed to go to work at home or in the area to provide support for their family. This was the case for my parents and I know my mother wished she could have continued to learn from Mr. Anderson. Her younger siblings were fortunate to have him teach them for the majority of their school years.
I never knew Eugene Anderson. His name was revived for me a couple of weeks ago when his daughter, Gail, contacted me about a painting she had of my grandparents'(my father’s parents) log house in rural Saskatchewan near Wallwort. There have been a few published photos of this house and I have seen numerous paintings by another artist from the area. The memory of this log house is very strong for our family and I remember visiting it a couple of times as a small child in the 1960s. The stone chimney is amazing and all built by my grandparents.
Log Cabin Painted by Eugene Anderson
It was very thoughtful of Gail to track me down via my Aunt Lorraine. These paintings are easily lost over time as many people do not have a connection to the subject. Gail thought of our family and shared the gift of this painting with us. Mr. Anderson painted the house from a photo published in a newspaper and the detail is wonderful. I expect it was special for him as well because he knew my parents and my grandparents. Truly a gifted man and splendid individual.
As with many farmhouses in Saskatchewan they fell into disrepair as people traded rural life for urban living. The houses either grew tired and fell down or became the victims of vandals and were destroyed. My grandparents log house suffered from the latter and it has been gone for many years.
Thankfully the memory will live on because of the talented art of a teacher and the thoughtfulness of his daughter.
2020 was a year like no other. As we enter 2021, Covid 19 is still going in full force. The case load is rising in many parts of Canada and the vaccines are just getting under way. Fingers are being pointed and blame is being assigned – all a waste of energy because governments of all political stripes are trying their best and hopefully we learn from our experiences. The loss of life is tragic and death is targeting older people, many with underlying conditions. The disappointing part is when individuals flaunt the rules and see themselves with a sense of entitlement not afforded others. Our rules are not the problem – the lack of compliance is.
In a year of such significance and turmoil, we purchased a cabin in northern Saskatchewan in January. We took possession on April 1st just as the realities of Covid-19 were becoming very apparent. The stock market reached its low on March 23rd and we really had to wonder if it was a good idea to make such a major purchase with so much uncertainty. As it turned out, it was the best thing we could have done and we have been reaping the rewards ever since. Now we know what our friends meant when they told us how much their cabin means to their family.
One of the interesting things that has happened with Covid-19 is that people are not travelling so all things recreation have been in high demand. These businesses have done well while other business sectors have suffered dramatically. All things are not equal in a pandemic.
The most noticeable change for us has been the inability to travel and now the inability to see our family as the Covid-19 restrictions have been tightened for over a month. We do video calls with our friends and family but it is not the same. We talk about amazing trips we have had to Napa, Europe, Florida and Las Vegas and hope we have not taken them for granted.
We talk with our friends about the people we all met in Montenegro that created friendships far beyond the few days we were there. We know Montenegro has been hit hard by Covid-19 and we can only hope the country comes back driven by the spirit we saw when we toured the country. When the world is right, we need to get back to taste the rakija and share a meal.
Our cabin with lights up before the snow arrived.The main creek flowing into the Lake.
The cabin has been a fantastic getaway. The north is so peaceful and the air is fresh. The silence at night is unlike anything the majority of the world knows. There is something about sitting in the backyard by the fire pit with your family and friends that cannot be duplicated.
We watch the deer stroll by on a regular basis. They leave the area when the people numbers increase over the summer and they return in the early fall. It is common to see them on the walking trails and on the winter snowmobile trails. If you’re lucky you may even see a bear or a moose when out for a drive. The coyotes and fox are also plentiful. All this wildlife reminds me of growing up on a farm in northeast Saskatchewan where we had all the same wildlife around our farm.
A cuban cigar and fire pit makes the day worthwhile!Brown bear near our cabin.Deer passing through our front yard.
From fishing in the summer to snowmobiling in the winter, we have spent a lot of time enjoying the north. It’s really amazing to see the four seasons from a lake perspective. For people who do not get to experience winter, I can tell you it is as amazing as you make it. Snowshoeing, cross country skiing, ice fishing and snowmobiling are winter activities that make winter more than bearable!
Snow came in early November. Sharing a walking trail with a white-tail buck.First day with a new snowmobile on the Lake. Ice fishing shack and the ride to get there. 16 inches of ice in early December.
So what do quilts have to do with Covid-19?
Kathy makes quilts and gives them away to so many friends, family and even people she has not even met. These quilts are a symbol of kindness and friendship that stand out in the Covid-19 year we have experienced. The quilts are also sprinkled throughout our cabin.
Kathy has been making and giving away quilts and blankets for years so 2020 was nothing new. New babies, friends birthdays, children experiencing health issues, friends retiring, accident victims, and mostly because someone either needed one or they are just special people. Pure kindness and no expectation of recognition. Isn’t this exactly what we needed in 2020? Isn’t this exactly what we need all the time?
Quilt for the cabin.A 2020 retirement quilt.A winter quilt.
So where are we headed in 2021? Hard to tell but I know we will somehow beat Covid-19. I know our cabin will be important to our family and I know Kathy will continue to be the kindest person I know!
When I grew up a handshake was a sign of greeting and it also sealed a goodbye. Of course, in more personal situations, a hug or a peck on the cheek worked as well! Business agreements were consummated with a handshake and nothing more was required. Your word was your bond and the handshake completed the transaction.
We did not get to holiday much as kids but we have been fortunate in our adult life to travel a good part of Canada, the United States and parts of Europe. We have become accustomed to planning a holiday and going away without any issues.
Covid 19 has changed both the handshake and the holiday. They have been stolen from us – at least for now.
Will we return to the past or are we changed forever?
Will future generations know the power of a handshake or the thrill of planning and going on a distant holiday?
The handshake correctly went away early with the onslaught of Covid. The threat of virus transmission was just too much to risk and the replacement with an elbow bump just feels awkward. Time may create normality for the elbow bump but can anything replace a human touch? The handshake was a sign of peace and welcoming that will be hard to replace.
We were in Hawaii in March 2020 when Covid accelerated in the United States and Canada. It almost felt unbelievable how fast things were changing and how little our government health advisors actually knew about what was going on. By the time we got home things were rapidly changing and we were in self quarantine for 14 days. It would be almost three months before we would enter a restaurant again.
In March and April we hoped things would start taking shape and return to normal by summer. We were wrong. It is now late August and more questions remain than we have answers for.
International, national and even regional travel ended by March 2020. We were a country locked down and it was hard to disagree with these decisions. Holiday travel of any kind was put on hold.
So what is the holiday outlook now?
We postponed a September 2020 holiday to Ireland and Scotland for one year and our fall Las Vegas trip is just about extinct. We are not particularly hopeful for a winter holiday as the United States is having a difficult time getting Covid under control. After adjusting for population, the United States is still running at 10 times the daily Covid cases as compared to Canada.
This summer has been very different as all community events and sporting events have been shuttered. As we move into the colder weather of fall and winter, I expect Canadians will be anxious to get away for a warm holiday and it is not looking good right now.
For us and some of our travelling friends, it may take an approved vaccine before we venture out for travel to the United States and Europe. This vaccine is unlikely to be available until the summer of 2021.
We miss the travel, the food and the people you meet along the way – the Beer Haus in Las Vegas, a bowl of goulash in Budapest, the canals of Amsterdam, the beauty of Indian Shores in Florida and the warm winter beaches in Hawaii.
We don’t feel hard done by because we are healthy and enjoy the best of what life has to offer with our boys close by.
It’s just on many days, I could use a good handshake and a holiday.
On December 28, 1949 a fire broke out on the main floor of my grandfather’s house and it would change my father’s life forever. The following is a recently found article from the Saskatoon Star Phoenix, January 3, 1950, that gives a written account of the events of that day. Our family knew the story from accounts told directly to us by our father and mother and by our aunts who were rescued. My grandfather also provided an account of what happened in a family book he wrote.
My parents were married in July 1948 and their first son, my brother, was born in August 1949. They were spending the 1949 Christmas at my grandparent’s farm when the fire was accidentally started. My father faced the flames twice – once to help get my mother and brother out of the house and a second time when he went back in the burning house to the upstairs to rescue my two aunts aged 6 and 4.
Dad told us he wrapped the girls in blankets and ran down the stairs through the flames to safety. He was severely burned on his hands and face. The scars lasted forever but my aunts, Dianne and Lorraine, were not injured and have lived wonderful lives with their own families. My aunt Dianne gave the eulogy at my father’s funeral following his death on January 8, 2003 and said he was her hero. He was almost 75 years old.
It took a long time to travel the 28 miles from rural Saskatchewan, in the dead of winter, to the Tisdale hospital given the burns my father sustained. The family did not have a car so they had to travel by horse and buggy. He always spoke highly of the care he received in Tisdale and the subsequent care in Winnipeg, Manitoba.
There were many weeks in hospital where pins had to be inserted in some of my Dad’s fingers for them to function because the fingers were burned so bad. There was a concern that he would lose his right hand but all worked out in the end. At Grace Hospital in Winnipeg, Dr. Gerrard was doing new, exploratory work with skin grafting. Dr. Gerrard was able to take skin from my father’s back and inner arms and graft the skin onto his nose and face. It was nothing short of amazing the work that was done in 1950. My father credits these medical people with him enjoying a fruitful and productive life. Grace Hospital was operated by the Salvation Army and was the first Salvation Army hospital in Canada.
Another significant point that Dad always mentioned related to the cost of his treatment in Tisdale and Winnipeg. He never paid anything because they had no money. There was a small bill from the Grace Hospital, which I copied below, that covered the basic hospital stay and incidentals; however, Dad did not remember who paid the account. It is safe to say the Canadian taxpayer covered all the costs and this represents a case in point that the Canadian Health care system works.
It is with gratitude and with considerable humbleness that my wife and I have been able to support Saskatoon Hospitals over the last number of years. We are blessed in Canada for many things and our health care system is but one.
For over 50 years Dad worked, raised a family and never complained. In the winter the cold affected the pins in his hands and yet most of his work was done outside from cutting trees to feeding cattle. His face was also susceptible to the cold and it must have been so difficult working outside.
Given his circumstances he could have taken an easier route and accessed the Canadian safety net system beyond what the health care system initially provided. He never did. He worked and paid his bills and was an inspiration to any of us who knew his story.
My mother also deserves a word for her work while Dad was in hospital and during the years that followed. She worked hard and had very little in terms of material things. I’m so proud of both of them.
My father never received recognition of any kind for what he did that cold December day in 1949. He simply did what he had to do when the circumstances presented themselves.
Was he a hero – of course. Was he my hero – always.
My wife and I went to Europe for three weeks in May 2019 and covered Budapest, Croatia, Montenegro and Amsterdam. I will break the trip into four different reviews as they each deserve their own attention.
We flew into Amsterdam from Podgorica, Montenegro on Polish Air. All was good.
This was our first trip to Amsterdam and we took a taxi from the airport. It was a Sunday and a main road was closed for the weekend for construction so the taxi ride was quite a bit more expensive. Perhaps consider Uber as an option. We used Uber to get back to the airport and it was about 35 Euro.
We stayed five nights at the La Remise B & B. The location is perfect and the breakfast is very good. The room and bathroom was quite large and we were very comfortable. There are some steep stairs that could bother some people; however, all was good for us. There are lots of restaurants in the area and decent walking distance to many attractions. The Rijks Museum was basically around the corner as were the tour bus stop and canal tour stop. We will stay at La Remise when we return to Amsterdam. We paid about $300 CDN per night ($225 USD) for the La Remise B & B.
We did a City bus tour to get a feel for the City and it gave us some good information. The canals are fabulous to look at and they seem endless. Walking is flat and easy because there is so much to look at as you stroll around.
A typical scenic canal in Amsterdam.A few of the 2500 house boats in Amsterdam.
We toured the Rijks Museum and it was very nice. They had an additional Rembrandt showing to compliment the permanent painting in their collection. We could not get into the Van Gogh Museum or the Anne Frank House because the online tickets were sold out well in advance. This would be a tip for planning as you need to order these tickets well in advance.
I took this picture to show the baby’s “Muscles” and the “Abs”!Johannes Vermeer’s ” The milkmaid”.A Rembrandt, “Syndics of the Drapers’ Guild“.
We walked to the De Gooyer Windmill which is the tallest in the Netherlands. There was no tour as it is closed and you can only enjoy the visual aspects of this Dutch icon.
We continued our walk to the Dutch Resistance Museum. This is well worth the time, particularly if you are interested in WWII history. Be sure to use the free listening device and move slowly as you learn how it works.
The Red Light District is an easy walk through. It is not that big and we were not interested in stopping. Kind of sad actually.
A nice treat was the Reypenaer Wine and Cheese Tasting. We received a good presentation of various Dutch cheeses with some good wine pairings. It took about an hour and we has a good time. Highly recommend this and suggest you book online in advance.
We went to two markets. One was the Blumen flower market and the other was on Albert Cuypstraat street. The flower market is centrally located and, aside from the flowers, there are mostly souvenirs.
The Albert market is huge and is on a closed street. Lots of good souvenirs, clothes and street food. The chicken we had was excellent. I even purchased a jacket. If you buy anything over 50 Euro you can get the tax back at the airport before you go through security to board your flight. Be sure the sales invoice clearly shows the amount of tax paid or you may encounter problems getting the tax back.
The canal tour we took was about 90 minutes and is a great way to see the City from the water. The tour is narrated to point out some of the building highlights. You really notice how quiet it is on the water and you will appreciate this relaxing time. This tour is a must if you are going to Amsterdam.
Our walks always included a stop for coffee or beer. No problem finding good places to stop.
The Reypenaer Cheese and Wine Tasting.The tallest wooden windmill in the Netherlands.
We found some great restaurants by checking on Trip Advisor. The Chicken Bar had a simple menu of rotisserie chicken and side dishes and it is well worth going to. We did not have a reservation but you may need one in the future.
The Pantry was our best find as the food was excellent and the service was equally as good. We went without a reservation and got in only because they had a no show. The Dutch traditional meal was amazing! It was so good we made a reservation for the next night. I tried the beef stew, potato and red cabbage. My wife could not resist having the traditional Dutch meal for a second time. With the main courses, small salads, dessert, sparkling water, a bottle of wine, the total bill came to $110 CDN ($80 USD) before tip. we thought his was very good and very affordable. Other places are more expensive. Be sure to make a reservation.
A traditional Dutch meal at “The Pantry”. Soooooo good!Just another postcard type photo in Amsterdam.
As you move around Amsterdam be aware of all the bicycles and motorbikes. They know where they are going and as tourists we are novices in the city. Look both ways and see when it is safe to cross the road, bike lane and sometimes a train track as well.
Amsterdam is a fairly expensive city. Be prepared for this ahead of time to avoid surprises. We had no trouble finding affordable restaurants.
Amsterdam has a lot to offer for a vacation. We will be back to cover many of the places we did not see. Can’t wait!
My wife and I went to Europe for three weeks in May 2019 and covered Budapest, Croatia, Montenegro and Amsterdam. I will break the trip into four different reviews as they each deserve their own attention.
We spent a week in Montenegro on a privately guided tour and it was fantastic! This is the way to see Montenegro and in particular the way to meet the wonderfully proud people of Montenegro.
Our friends did the same tour last year and because of their rave reviews we booked for May this year. We could not have been happier with the tour, the people involved in the tour and all the Montenegrins who opened their homes to us to speak of their heritage and their country. The tour company is Montenegro Eco Adventures “MEA” [EDIT New Name Nikena Eco Adventures] and the manager is a dedicated young man – Nikola Radovic. Contact information. Email info@montenegro-eco.com.WhatsApp +382 69 123 076
The tour is special because Nikola knows so many people and he has the contacts in order to book places to visit that are meaningful to really get to know Montenegro. You could never get this on a self-guided tour. The tour is very affordable by any tour standards and Nikola is very responsive to questions and flexible to tailor a tour to your needs.
Our guide, Djordje, was simply the best. Like Nikola, Djordje knows everyone. We never went into a city or village without someone coming up to Djordje to say hello. How can you beat this type of local connection? You can’t.
Djordje picked us up in Dubrovnik in a very modern, comfortable van. It was just the three of us for the week so we had plenty of room for our bags. The tour was well planned and we always knew well in advance what we would be doing for the day. The attention to detail by MEA is clear and noticeable. The B & B accommodations were excellent and we would not have changed any of them. I will not necessarily speak directly to each one because we would not hesitate to stay in them again.
KOTOR
Kotor is a coastal city protected by Boka Bay (actually makes up four bays) and we stayed there two nights at the Babilon Apartments. We toured the old city where the cruise ships dock and would have spent more time there if the weather had been better. The town of Perast was historically the protector of Kotor as all ships had to pass by Perast to enter Kotor. There is a narrow entrance into the bay near Perast that provides a natural fortification for Kotor.
View of Boka Bay from a stone village higher in the mountains.Narrow entrance to Perast before arriving in Kotor.
Using Kotor as our base, we travelled for a boat tour to the Blue Caves on the Adriatic coast near the entrance to Boka Bay. The cave is relatively small but the blue water is nice and it gets very busy there during the peak tourist time of July and August.
Blue Caves near the entrance to Boka Bay on the Adriatic Sea.
We made an afternoon stop at Klinci Village Resort for lunch and a talk with a 17th generation Montenegrin. The Sarma (cabbage rolls) were very good and it was preceded by a drink of Rakija and followed by more lunch. Most meals in Montenegro start with a shot of Rakija which is made of most types of fruit and is 40% to 50% alcohol. There is always tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese, bread and prosciutto to start as well. No need for supper in Montenegro after the big lunches!
We brought Saskatoon Berry jam to give as a gift to our hosts at the various places we stopped. The gifts were much appreciated as were the few words we used in Montenegrin to show our respect for the Montenegrin people and their culture.
It was fascinating to listen to Bogdan speak of his family history and the current transition from Communism to a market system. The pride is evident and the challenges are real.
Klinci Village ResortA view of Kotor from the switchback road leaving Kotor before going over the mountain.
NATIONAL PARK LOVCENand CETINJE
We travelled from Kotor to the National Park Lovcen over a switchback highway with spectacular views of Boka Bay and Kotor. These were some of the prettiest views you will see in the world. For comparison, think of the the Icefield Parkway from Jaspar National Park to Banff National Park in Canada.
We did a 10 kilometre hike in National Park Lovcen and it was enjoyable and quite workable. We stayed at the Monte Rosa in the Park and it was a nice hotel with good food.
A view of Boka Bay from our hike in National Park Lovcen.
After leaving National Park Lovcen we went to Cetinje, the former capital of Montenegro. The capital was moved to the mountains in Cetinje after 1452 when the Ottomans invaded Montenegro. We toured the city, including a monastery and King Nicholas I’s home. Nicholas reigned as the sovereign prince of Montenegro from 1860 to 1918.
A church in Cetinje surrounded by ruins of the original church.
In the afternoon we had lunch and a visit to the home of a honey farmer and fruit grower. The owner made honey from his hives and made liquor from the fruit he grew. His Rakija and brandy was excellent. The lunch was tasty and large in keeping with Montenegrin hospitality.
Brian with our host wearing the traditional Montenegrin hats. Note the variety of Rakija drinks on the table. We bought some to bring home.
VIRPAZAR – SKADAR LAKE
Our next two nights were spent in Virpazar which is on Skadar Lake. What a beautiful area. We have left the mountains and moved back down to the water.
A view on the drive from Cetinje to Virpazar near Skadar Lake
We stayed at the Country House Djurisic hosted by Marko. Marko is hands down the most passionate B & B owner we have ever met. He is young, energetic and very proud his history and he wants his B & B to be the best. His attention to detail and caring for his guests far exceeds the standards of most hosts. If you visit Montenegro you must meet Marko.
A view from our balcony at Marko’s place in Virpazar.We had the new studio apartment Marko built. Look at the balcony and imagine supper overlooking the valley.A monstrous and delicious supper prepared by Marko’s mother and delivered to our balcony by Marko. The wine is made by Marko as well.
We had a 5 hour private boat tour of Skadar Lake. The weather was good and Miro our boat guide was knowledgable about the area and about the lake. We stopped for lunch at a fishing village and had some amazing fish soup and baked trout. Skadar Lake is quite large and is situated in both Montenegro and Albania.
A view from our lunch stop at a fishing village on Skadar Lake.
PODGORICA – MOUNTAIN AREA
Podgorica is the capital of Montenegro and we stayed here two nights as we toured the mountain area north and east of Podgorica. Our boutique hotel was the Hemera and the service was excellent. We were very busy these two days and really need to go back to Podgorica to see more of the city.
On our first full day we travelled to the mountains to see a forest which has some of the oldest trees in the world. We did a short walk at a lake in the forest before stopping for a coffee break. After we made our way to a rural household of a woodcarver. He carves portraits as well as the traditional Montenegrin string instrument, the Gusle. The Gusle was played as stories were sung by the singer to pass on the history of heroes to other generations.
These falls are Montenegro’s “Niagara Falls”. Smaller than the real deal but still impressive.Standing on the dock on a small glacial lake in the old forest.Moraca Monastery (13th Century)
We had a wonderful lunch at the woodcarver’s home. They made a potato and cheese dish that was fried and mixed with cream cheese for serving with sour cream as well. Lots of calories for hardworking tourists! Naturally, we had many varieties of Rakija before the tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese, bread and prosciutto were served.
Brian playing the Gusle while wearing the traditional Montenegrin hat. Note the number of hand carved Gusle’s on the wall.
On our last full day in Montenegro we went up to the Ostrog Monastery which is built into the mountains 900 meters high above the Zeta Valley. The high, remote area provided security for the relics during the Ottoman occupation. This is a pilgrimage spot for many devote Orthodox Christians.
Ostrog Monastery
In the afternoon, we traveled into the countryside in the area of Niksicko, known for their beer making, to visit Svetozar’s house for a traditional Montenegrin “meal under the bell”. This was a special treat in so many ways. The taste of the food could only be surpassed by the hospitality and fun we had with the hosts.
Svetozar was interested in knowing about our Canadian heritage and he provided us with his family history and we toured his wine and liquor making building. His Rakija was excellent and it burned nicely when tossed onto the fire. The 50% alcohol aided the burning process!
The meal was superb as we expected from the wonderful smell as it was cooking. A feast to be sure. This is another of the “can’t miss” places to visit in Montenegro.
Svetozar holding the cover for the lamb and veal already cooking over the fire.The vegetables just added to the cooking pot.The final product ready to be served.
On the last morning in Podgorica we went to the Radevic Estate Winery, hosted by the owner, a retired Doctor who is a 21st generation Montenegrin. The wines we tasted were very good and the chardonnay is perhaps the best I have tasted anywhere. His buildings are impressive and his 1,500 case production is sold in New York and to high end restaurants. The pride of ownership, heritage and quality are front and centre.
The following sign in the sales office speaks to a good sense of humour as well.
Alas, our time in Montenegro came to an end. We were sad to leave Montenegro and it was easy to know why – the people we met.
Over time we may not remember the view of a mountain or the water; however, we will not soon forget the people and hospitality that is Montenegro. With young entrepreneurs we met like Nikola, Djordje and Marko, we know Montenegro is in good hands. Thank you, my friends.
My wife and I went to Europe for three weeks in May 2019 and covered Budapest, Croatia, Montenegro and Amsterdam. I will break the trip into four different reviews as they each deserve their own attention.
We were Croatia for a week and spent one night in Zagreb, three nights in each of Split and Dubrovnik. The currency in Croatia is the Kuna, although they will accept the Euro in many places, especially cash in the market shops. The exchange is very poor so it is best to pay with Kuna.
ZAGREB
We took a train from Budapest to Zagreb as we wanted the experience of a train ride to see the countryside. It was about a 5 hour ride and all was comfortable but not quite like the trains in France or Italy. It was a relaxing trip and we are glad we did the trip by train.
Zagreb is the capital of Croatia and is located in the interior of the country away from the Adriatic Sea. We only spent one night there and really there is not much to do in the city.
We took a narrated bus tour of the city which was good and we learned a lot about the city history and the buildings. We were glad we stopped but we do not expect to go back as we covered all that was needed.
We stayed about a 5 minute walk from the train station at the Astoria Best Western and it was great. The room was excellent and the buffet breakfast was very good. We arrived late at night just before the restaurant closed and they accommodated us with a burger, ham sandwich and hot french fries. Superb service.
Centre square in Zagreb.
SPLIT
We booked a train from Zagreb to Split; however, there were maintenance issues and they sent us by bus instead of the train. The bus ride was comfortable for a 5 hour trip. There was no washroom on the bus and they made one stop at a truck stop for short break. The bus driver was not helpful and we would caution travellers about this travel option.
Split is very picturesque and definitely worth a visit. It is situated on the Adriatic Sea and has a deep port for the large cruise ships to dock.
Photo op on the main walkway on the promenade in SplitCruise ships docked in Split.
We stayed at the Splendida Palace B & B. Wow, this was an excellent place to stay as the service was clearly above typical accommodations. The B & B is family owned and Marija was great to deal with from the reservation to our final checkout. She picked us up in her car at the bus station and Anna, a front desk employee, carried our bags up to our room. The breakfast was a buffet and was all we needed. The location was close to restaurants, the market and the main promenade on the water. No question for us we would stay here again if we return. The price was very reasonable.
Split is a very old city and the Diocletian’s Palace is the centrepiece on the water. The Palace is now home to small tourist shops and restaurants. The promenade out front right on the water is lined with restaurants to greet the cruise ship tourists.
The promenade on the water.Shopping street in old town SplitOne part of the Diocletian’s Palace
We had better weather on our second full day and we walked up to the top of the hill where the flag and lookout point are situated. There is a coffee shop about 2/3 of the way up and we stopped there on our way down. It is about a 45 minute walk one way. It has some elevation so people with mobility issues may not want to go. The views of the old city and port are spectacular.
A view of the soccer stadium from the top.A view of the old city from the top.The steps look daunting but they are workable.
We had some good meals in Split. You can expect to pay more than Budapest or Zagreb as this is a tourist town. There were two places in particular that I would recommend trying if you visit Split.
The Bokeria is located in the Palace area and they do not rush you. A reservation is necessary and we quite enjoyed a relaxing meal. We had an appetizer, main course, dessert, sparkling water and a bottle of local wine for $160 CDN ($125 USD), including tip.
We went to the Bokamora for supper without a reservation. The restaurant was recommended for the pizza and all was spot on. Probably the best pizza I’ve ever had. There was four kinds of cured ham on the pizza with fresh toppings. No processed meat. A large pizza to share, beer, sparkling water and tip and the bill came to $45 CDN ($34 USD). Very affordable.
If you plan a trip to Split, three nights is all you need. A great place to visit and once you see it you should be good as the cruise ship tourists make it crowded.
DUBROVNIK
We had a driver and car pick us up in Split and take us on a day tour that ended at our accommodation in Dubrovnik. We stopped at a winery for an owner guided tour and tasting. The cost was 300 Euro and it was nice to go door to door and have a guided day tour as well.
Dubrovnik, set on the Adriatic Sea, is similar to Split in many ways but the walled city makes Dubrovnik something special to visit. Three nights is plenty to see all Dubrovnik has to offer and after a while the cruise ship tourists rolling through gets tiring. Be prepared for some walking and there is elevation (more than Split) depending on where you stay.
We stayed at the Apartment Love & Hope which was about a 20 minute walk, with elevation, to the Ploce Gate entrance at the walled city. It was 800 sq ft on two levels and had everything we needed. The price was good for a tourist city and the views from the balcony were the absolute best.
The main attraction is to visit the walled city and walk around the wall. It took us about 90 minutes to make the entire trip around and it is a beautiful walk on a nice day. We had perfect weather and all the views are spectacular.
Looking back on the city from the wall.A port for docking small boats just outside the wall.These were the steps leading down to the walled city from our apartment. Easier down than up!
There is a tram that goes from Dubrovnik up the mountain to overlook the city. It was shutdown because the operating company was not paying their taxes. We took a taxi to the top and we were not disappointed. Magnificent views.
A view from the mountain top overlooking Dubrovnik.
We had some good meals in Dubrovnik and particularly enjoyed having a beer or coffee on the main street in the walled city. We had supper at the Restaurant Dubrovnik which is also designated a Michelin restaurant. The food was excellent and priced as you would expect at a high end restaurant.
Our last night we ate at the Dubravka Restaurant which is right on the water. We had the best table overlooking the water and it was a very good meal. There was no rush and the servers were very good. We had a main course, sparkling water and a bottle of wine. With tip, the total was $150 CDN ($115 USD). Very good considering where we were.
A view of the Dubravka Restaurant from the wall.
Dubrovnik is a city that you need to see. It has a rich history and the architecture of the wall and the buildings makes Dubrovnik very different from other cities.
My wife and I went to Europe for three weeks in May 2019 and covered Budapest, Croatia, Montenegro and Amsterdam. I will break the trip into four different reviews as they each deserve their own attention.
We flew overnight into Amsterdam and then over to Budapest and arrived in the early afternoon. We took a taxi from the airport and the taxi driver provided a printout of the fare based on the kilometres and the rate. I think they do this to give people greater certainty that the ride price is fairly calculated. Our other taxi trips were all done in the same way.
This was our second visit to Budapest, although the first trip was only for a couple of days before we boarded a Danube river cruise. We wanted to come back and get a better sense for the city. We were not disappointed with our three night stay.
Just arrived and first photo op.
We used Trip Advisor to find a B & B in a central location that was within walking distance to restaurants and attractions. The Carat Boutique Hotel in the Jewish Quarter worked perfectly for us. The price was reasonable and the location was superb.
This is a modern hotel and the rooms are comfortable and a good size. The bathroom was quite large. We had a room facing the interior and not the street and this is best as the street can get busy at night.
They provided an excellent buffet breakfast (eggs, meat, rolls, cereal, cheese and even champagne) and they had staff ready to assist with seating and keeping the buffet fresh. You could not walk away hungry.
Modern boutique hotel with good service and breakfast. Location, location, location………
Because we only had two full days, we could not cover everything the city had to offer. We did a “City Sightseeing” hop on, hop off city tour which is our typical first move when we are visiting a city. The ticket was good for two days and included a water boat tour on the Danube. There are a couple of city tour options and we found a helpful ticket seller near the hotel and there was also a bus stop close by. The tour is a good way to acquaint yourself with the various places you want to go back to when you have time. We usually make the full loop to ensure we see everything once.
There were three things we wanted to cover in the short time we had in addition to the city bus tour – the Great Market Hall, the Buda Hills and Castle and the Danube River Cruise.
The Great Market Hall
This is an impressive market that is huge. The first floor has fresh vegetables, fruit and meat where the locals do their daily shopping. There is a never ending supply of paprika as well – a must buy in Hungary.
The Great Market view from the second floor.
The second floor has crafts, clothes, souvenirs and cooked food options for the tourists. There are some wonderful locally made items and it is worth the look. When you get tired, try some goulash or chicken dishes.
You can easily spend a couple hours or more exploring this market.
Second floor crafts and clothes for sale.
Buda Hills and Castle
We went up to the Buda Hills and Castle on the city bus tour and we were able to get off and walk around the Castle area. The views of the Danube and the Pest side are very good. Take a walk around and enjoy.
Castle at the Buda Hills.A view of the Danube and bridges from the Buda Castle.
Palace Parliament Building view from the Buda Castle
Danube River Cruise
The river cruise was part of the ticket we intentionally purchased with the city bus tour. It was about 60 minutes and the boat was a good size and all felt very safe. We slowly went down the Danube with narration and around Margaret Island and back to the dock. The weather was good so that made it all worthwhile. I don’t think it would be quite the same in the rain.
A view from the Danube.A typical long distance river cruise ship that operates on the Danube from Budapest to Amsterdam.
Restaurants
There are some excellent places to eat or stop for a beer in the central part of Budapest. We quite enjoyed the “Red Pepper Hungarian Restaurant” which is beside the British Embassy, the “Cafe Vian” and “Jamie Oliver Pizza”
The restaurants are very affordable and the tip is usually included in the total bill. Just review the bill and it usually indicates if the tip is included.
A must have in Budapest is a Chimney Cake. This delightful pastry with a cinnamon coating is so good. Don’t leave Budapest without having at least one.
The absolute best pastry anywhere.
Random Information
Budapest is a wonderful city to visit. We were told that since Hungary joined the European Union in 2007 there is money flowing in for building refurbishing and city upgrades. You can see the work all over the city.
The official currency in Hungary is the Forint. They have not adopted the Euro even though they are in the European Union. The Euro is accepted in most places; however, the exchange rate is not great. We found it was best to use Forints in all cases.
If you are going to Budapest for the first time I would suggest at least four nights to give yourself enough time to see the main parts of the city. You can easily walk around and enjoy the Danube in a very relaxing manner.
We do hope we get the opportunity to return one day.
Most Canadians go to Cuba to enjoy the beautiful beaches at an all-inclusive resort and perhaps do a day trip into Havana. Over the year we have heard about the wonderful Cuban cigars, the tasty rum and some dissatisfaction with the food options.
Cuba was never on our radar screen for a vacation until our friends suggested a guided island tour as opposed to the typical resort offering and we jumped at the opportunity. We opted for a 9 night tour for just the four of us that included upgraded B & B accommodation, a local guide, auto transportation on the island and a couple of meals. Our airfare to Cuba, most meals and drinks, tipping and other incidentals were an extra cost to us. We felt the overall trip cost was very affordable.
GETTING INTO CUBA
There are restrictions to enter Cuba from the United States. If you plan to enter from the US, tourism is not a legitimate reason for travel to Cuba. Be sure you understand the restrictions or you may be disappointed. We flew from Canada to Cancun, Mexico and then did a return flight to Havana from Cancun before returning to Canada. We had no issues entering or leaving the Havana airport. You do need to purchase a Cuban travel document before entering Cuba. We purchased ours at the Cancun airport through our air carrier, Interjet. It cost 350 Mexican pesos each or about 18 USD. Be careful in filling out the form as any error or correction voids the form and you must buy another form and start over. Two of us made the mistake.
The form is stamped at immigration in Cuba and you must retain the form when you exit Cuba. We do not know the consequences of losing the form and we were not anxious to find out so we kept it safe. Give yourself lots of time at the airport to fly into Cuba. Interjet suggested 3 hours before departure at the Cancun airport and we had no issues by following their suggestion.
We found the flight to Havana had many Cubans returning from vacation or shopping trips and they were loaded down with baggage. We determined that Cubans can travel once per year (if they can afford to) and they are allowed to bring back 125 kilos (275 pounds) of purchases or equivalents based on an approved government list. We saw TVs, air conditioners and bags full of what we understood to be clothes, footwear and household goods. Aside from personal consumption, we were told that many of the purchases are re-sold in Cuba as a way to supplement their modest income.
CUBAN CURRENCY
Cuba currently has two types of currency – pesos used by the locals and a Cuban convertible currency “CUC” used by tourists – neither of which is any good outside of Cuba. Take them home and they are called souvenirs.
One CUC is the equivalent to 25 pesos although as a tourist the CUC is the only currency you need. We obtained our CUCs at the Havana airport and we exchanged Canadian dollars. The Cuban CUC is set on par with the US dollar to establish a medium of exchange. Cuba does not want US dollars and they charge a 10% fee to exchange US dollars. Our exchange went quite smoothly and we felt the exchange rate from Canadian dollars to Cuban CUCs was fair.
There are special places to exchange money in Cuban cities and there are also ATMs to obtain CUCs. Our friends used a Canadian bank debit card at an ATM and it worked fine. We have read online that Visa cards also work in the ATMs or you can go to a bank with a VISA or a Mastercard as long as they are not associated with a US bank. We simply took Canadian dollars and used the exchange houses.
We did not see places accepting credit cards to pay for meals, cigars, rum or souvenirs so we used cash only. Our accommodation was covered by our tour so we do not know if they accept credit cards or not.
CIENFUEGOS
After spending one night in Havana we started our tour by going to Giron to see a Revolution museum. It consisted mostly of revolution photos, a few military weapons and the sequence of events as Castro and Guevara took control of Cuba in 1959. The narratives were all in Spanish and our guide was able to give us a good tour by filling in the details. It was a good historical review but we needed the guide to provide the verbal history. I think many of the towns and cities in Cuba have revolution museums.
We also stopped at the Bay of Pigs for a quick swim and a restroom break. There was also a deep cave with swimming in the open area. It was quite an attraction for the numerous bus tours and there seemed to be quite a few Russian tourists.
Cave pool at the Bay of Pigs
We overnighted in Cienfuegos at the Casa Brisa Sur B & B. Cienfuegos is a UNESCO designated city of 150,000 on a southern coastal bay and has many colonial buildings. The Casa was very clean and fully functional with a good en suite bathroom that was fully stocked with supplies. The hosts made us feel welcome and the morning breakfast was all we needed.
We took a tour of the central square and had our first use of the internet. We bought an internet card for $2 on the street and accessed the public Wifi in the square. The card is good for one hour and if you do not use it all you can start it up again at a different public Wifi spot. We did a walk down to the harbour for a beer and watched the sunset. Our guide recommended the Big Bang restaurant in the downtown that was within waking distance to the Casa. It was very good and reasonably priced.
Sunset at the harbour in Cienfuegos
TRINIDAD
We travelled via Santa Clara to Trinidad. The main three lane highway is quite good and not that busy. There a numerous old vehicles, tractors pulling wagons and horse drawn carts in the slow lane. Once we left the main highway the roads deteriorate noticeably and the driving is more difficult. Our driver did a good job but the ride is bumpy and he had to slow for horses and bicycles.
At Santa Clara we toured the Che Guevara museum which was mostly a good photo presentation with some personal context. Again the captions were in Spanish but we could get an understanding because the photos are self-explanatory.
Che Guevara museum in Santa Clara
It is a fairly long drive to Trinidad mostly because the secondary roads are not that good. The countryside is interesting with small farm lands and we crossed some nice valleys.
Trinidad is a UNESCO designated city of 75,000 people and is located on the south coast. We stayed at the Casa Lola B & B and it was comfortable and fully supplied. There was a big courtyard to enjoy a beer and to have breakfast. The staff seemed indifferent to our being there and it felt more like a hotel as opposed to a Casa. The location was excellent as we could access linen shopping, restaurants and the public square for Wifi and for the evening to listen to music and have a beer on the “steps at the square”. There was a money exchange house down the street and a government cigar store on the corner.
We took the opportunity to have a one hour salsa lesson. We had some nerves going in but it turned out to be one of the highlights of the vacation. A good teacher can make all the difference.
These are the steps at the square in Trinidad where we listened to music and had drinks in the evening
We had two nights in Trinidad and on our full day we went to the beach that was about 14 kms away by taxi. The vintage taxi ride cost $8 each way. The beach was nice and we paid for lounges under canopies to shade us from the sun. Well worth the trip.
Beach 14 kms from Trinidad
VINALES – THE BEST OF CUBA!
It is a long drive from Trinidad to Vinales, about 7 to 8 hours. We basically had to go back to Havana and then travel to the south west. I think Vinales was my favourite part of Cuba because of where we stayed and because of the beautiful valley we were in. The Vinales Valley is a UNESCO designated area and the city has a population of about 25,000.
We stayed at the Casa Fernando Diaz and it was the absolute best. The room was nice and the bathroom was made of tile and crystal clean. There was a sitting area in the back for breakfast and to enjoy the night sky. The breakfast was good and the host made us feel very welcome.
Bathroom at the Casa Fernando DiazOur comfortable bedroom at the Casa Fernando DiazOutdoor breakfast area at the Casa Fernando Diaz
Vinales is in tobacco country and they produce some of the best cigars in the world. We toured an organic tobacco farm and we found out that once the tobacco is harvested and dried, the government takes 90% of the crop for their cigar factories and the farm keeps 10% of the best leaves for their own cigar production. The farm produces about 5,000 cigars per year and they sell for $4 each. We purchased a package of 15 cigars.
They showed us how they hand roll a cigar and explained the overall process. They gave us a cigar to smoke and we also had a shot of local rum. It takes about five leaves to make a cigar and they remove the main vein to reduce the amount of nicotine in the cigar. Apparently the government factories use machines to make most of the cigars and do not remove the vein in the tobacco leaf.
Tobacco growing on the organic farm in the Vinales ValleyA covered sitting area at the organic tobacco farm
The Main Street in Vinales had an outdoor souvenir market and was loaded with good restaurants. This area is a must see for anyone who wants to experience the real Cuba countryside. Throughout the country we saw oxen working the fields and many horse drawn carts and Vinales was no different.
Oxen pulling a wagon in VinalesOne of the numerous horse drawn carts in Cuba Botanical garden in Vinales
We visited the above Botanical garden in Vinales. The entrance was free and we contributed a donation to help with the upkeep. We had a tour and the person was very knowledgeable and it showed the forethought of the two sisters who started the garden in the early 1900’s. We ended the tour by having a traditional Cuban rum drink made and served in a grapefruit. Delicious.
LA HABANA (Havana)
We spent a total of 4 nights in Old Havana and overall it was not our favourite part of Cuba. There is a lot of structural concerns with buildings and, outside the core tourist area, the streets are dirty with lots of garbage laying around and falling out of overflowing bins. It seems that Old Havana caters to the cruise ships and outside that core area there is a general lack of interest in maintenance. Although the streets are very dark at night, we did not have any safety issues as we were careful to walk as a group.
We did enjoy number of places and sights and for that reason Havana is worth the trip. (For us it will be one trip only) The convertible, vintage car tour was very good and we toured for about an hour and went to revolution square and seen a good part of Havana.
Our vintage car tour was in a Ford Edsel, one of only two in Cuba
There is a huge marketplace on the harbour and it was full of souvenirs and local art. This is worth a walk around and a couple hours is more than enough. Right beside the marketplace was a large bar under renovation. When this is completed it looks to be a good place to spend some time.
We did a tour of the rum museum and the guide did a good job outlining the history of rum production in Cuba. This is a must do in Havana.
Model of a rum factory at the Rum Museum
A gem in Havana is “Fusterlandia”. An artist, Jose Fuster, started doing tile work on his residence and it took off as he covered his own property and the adjacent property owners ask him to tile their gates as well. The work is spectacular and it is quite crowded with tour buses. Perhaps go early to avoid the crowds.
FusterlandiaFusterlandiaFusterlandia
One evening we went to the Tropicana production show at an outdoor theatre about 30 minutes from Old Havana. The price was $95 per ticket and similar to a Las Vegas show and cost. We went early and had drinks and appetizers in the restaurant. The value and food was very good.
The show was entertaining and they provided a full bottle of rum for the four of us as well as a glass of champagne. It was a very enjoyable evening.
Tropicana production show
We enjoyed roof top drinks and a roof top supper on two different occasions. The supper was hosted by our tour company and the chef provided a true feast. We started with a mojito making lesson and followed with a three course meal that was superb.
A private roof top kitchenSunset from the roof top during supper
Havana has a natural entrance to the harbour and it was protected by a fortress built by the Spaniards. We did a brief tour of the fortress and the views of the city are worth the time to go and see.
A view of Havana from the fortressA view of Old Havana from the fortress
I mentioned that Havana has a fair share of dirty streets and decaying buildings. The public bathrooms leave something to be desired. The attendants do charge for their use; however, most bathrooms have no toilet paper or toilet seats. Many of them do not flush and they lack any sort of towels to dry your hands, assuming there is any water available for the sinks.
Garbage on the street that was there for all three days we passed byTypical garbage on a Havana street outside the core area of Old HavanaAn abandoned sports facility. One of a number of structures rendered unusable
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
We were very glad we made the tour of Cuba as we learned far more about the country than we knew before.
The quality of the food available to the tourists is as good as any we have had on our other vacations. I don’t think the people of Cuba have the same quality and that is a true shame. We understand the people are issued annual ration books and they attend the various government stores each month to access bread, rice and beans, and some meat. Vegetables are hard to come by as they go to the tourist resorts and tourist restaurants. We were told the government supplies are not enough to live on and the people must buy extra food.
Apparently a doctor in Cuba makes about $40 per month and other work pays less. The people must earn extra money from business ventures or providing services. The business ventures require a government license and most relate to tourism such as taxis, B & Bs, souvenir shops, restaurants or guiding. We met a museum guide who said he made about $70 per month and this would have included tips.
Many buildings and roads in Cuba are in very bad condition and require an immense amount of capital to get them in proper working order. The bathroom facilities are abysmal and train and bus transportation for locals is almost unworkable. People who have cell phones just got internet on them in December 2018.
Oxen pulling ploughs in 2019 does not seem to be an innovative way to enhance crop production. It seems that agriculture is in a bad time warp. Cuba has workable land and a labor force but there is a disconnect to be more productive.
We always hear that Cuba has a very high literacy rate and I have to wonder how educated people cannot come up with innovative ways to produce more food and create greater economic benefits for the people. The current system simply does not work.
The country will have an updated constitution at the end of February 2019 and it is going to name Socialism as the political and economic system for Cuba. It strikes me as odd that a country where everyone is supposed to be economically equal that they must rely on the capitalism of tourism to sustain the people. Make no mistake that capitalism exists in Cuba and the people we met do want to get ahead.
Can everyone be economically equal in Cuba? Yes, if they want to continue the race to the bottom all together. The people deserve better.
