My wife and I went to Europe for three weeks in May 2019 and covered Budapest, Croatia, Montenegro and Amsterdam. I will break the trip into four different reviews as they each deserve their own attention.
We were Croatia for a week and spent one night in Zagreb, three nights in each of Split and Dubrovnik. The currency in Croatia is the Kuna, although they will accept the Euro in many places, especially cash in the market shops. The exchange is very poor so it is best to pay with Kuna.
ZAGREB
We took a train from Budapest to Zagreb as we wanted the experience of a train ride to see the countryside. It was about a 5 hour ride and all was comfortable but not quite like the trains in France or Italy. It was a relaxing trip and we are glad we did the trip by train.
Zagreb is the capital of Croatia and is located in the interior of the country away from the Adriatic Sea. We only spent one night there and really there is not much to do in the city.
We took a narrated bus tour of the city which was good and we learned a lot about the city history and the buildings. We were glad we stopped but we do not expect to go back as we covered all that was needed.
We stayed about a 5 minute walk from the train station at the Astoria Best Western and it was great. The room was excellent and the buffet breakfast was very good. We arrived late at night just before the restaurant closed and they accommodated us with a burger, ham sandwich and hot french fries. Superb service.
SPLIT
We booked a train from Zagreb to Split; however, there were maintenance issues and they sent us by bus instead of the train. The bus ride was comfortable for a 5 hour trip. There was no washroom on the bus and they made one stop at a truck stop for short break. The bus driver was not helpful and we would caution travellers about this travel option.
Split is very picturesque and definitely worth a visit. It is situated on the Adriatic Sea and has a deep port for the large cruise ships to dock.
We stayed at the Splendida Palace B & B. Wow, this was an excellent place to stay as the service was clearly above typical accommodations. The B & B is family owned and Marija was great to deal with from the reservation to our final checkout. She picked us up in her car at the bus station and Anna, a front desk employee, carried our bags up to our room. The breakfast was a buffet and was all we needed. The location was close to restaurants, the market and the main promenade on the water. No question for us we would stay here again if we return. The price was very reasonable.
http://splendidapalace.com/split/
Split is a very old city and the Diocletian’s Palace is the centrepiece on the water. The Palace is now home to small tourist shops and restaurants. The promenade out front right on the water is lined with restaurants to greet the cruise ship tourists.
We had better weather on our second full day and we walked up to the top of the hill where the flag and lookout point are situated. There is a coffee shop about 2/3 of the way up and we stopped there on our way down. It is about a 45 minute walk one way. It has some elevation so people with mobility issues may not want to go. The views of the old city and port are spectacular.
We had some good meals in Split. You can expect to pay more than Budapest or Zagreb as this is a tourist town. There were two places in particular that I would recommend trying if you visit Split.
The Bokeria is located in the Palace area and they do not rush you. A reservation is necessary and we quite enjoyed a relaxing meal. We had an appetizer, main course, dessert, sparkling water and a bottle of local wine for $160 CDN ($125 USD), including tip.
We went to the Bokamora for supper without a reservation. The restaurant was recommended for the pizza and all was spot on. Probably the best pizza I’ve ever had. There was four kinds of cured ham on the pizza with fresh toppings. No processed meat. A large pizza to share, beer, sparkling water and tip and the bill came to $45 CDN ($34 USD). Very affordable.
If you plan a trip to Split, three nights is all you need. A great place to visit and once you see it you should be good as the cruise ship tourists make it crowded.
DUBROVNIK
We had a driver and car pick us up in Split and take us on a day tour that ended at our accommodation in Dubrovnik. We stopped at a winery for an owner guided tour and tasting. The cost was 300 Euro and it was nice to go door to door and have a guided day tour as well.
Dubrovnik, set on the Adriatic Sea, is similar to Split in many ways but the walled city makes Dubrovnik something special to visit. Three nights is plenty to see all Dubrovnik has to offer and after a while the cruise ship tourists rolling through gets tiring. Be prepared for some walking and there is elevation (more than Split) depending on where you stay.
We stayed at the Apartment Love & Hope which was about a 20 minute walk, with elevation, to the Ploce Gate entrance at the walled city. It was 800 sq ft on two levels and had everything we needed. The price was good for a tourist city and the views from the balcony were the absolute best.
https://www.dubrovnikapartment-center.com
The main attraction is to visit the walled city and walk around the wall. It took us about 90 minutes to make the entire trip around and it is a beautiful walk on a nice day. We had perfect weather and all the views are spectacular.
There is a tram that goes from Dubrovnik up the mountain to overlook the city. It was shutdown because the operating company was not paying their taxes. We took a taxi to the top and we were not disappointed. Magnificent views.
We had some good meals in Dubrovnik and particularly enjoyed having a beer or coffee on the main street in the walled city. We had supper at the Restaurant Dubrovnik which is also designated a Michelin restaurant. The food was excellent and priced as you would expect at a high end restaurant.
Our last night we ate at the Dubravka Restaurant which is right on the water. We had the best table overlooking the water and it was a very good meal. There was no rush and the servers were very good. We had a main course, sparkling water and a bottle of wine. With tip, the total was $150 CDN ($115 USD). Very good considering where we were.
Dubrovnik is a city that you need to see. It has a rich history and the architecture of the wall and the buildings makes Dubrovnik very different from other cities.
My second cup is now empty…………………..