My wife and I went to Europe for three weeks in May 2019 and covered Budapest, Croatia, Montenegro and Amsterdam. I will break the trip into four different reviews as they each deserve their own attention.
We spent a week in Montenegro on a privately guided tour and it was fantastic! This is the way to see Montenegro and in particular the way to meet the wonderfully proud people of Montenegro.
Our friends did the same tour last year and because of their rave reviews we booked for May this year. We could not have been happier with the tour, the people involved in the tour and all the Montenegrins who opened their homes to us to speak of their heritage and their country. The tour company is Montenegro Eco Adventures “MEA” [EDIT New Name Nikena Eco Adventures] and the manager is a dedicated young man – Nikola Radovic. Contact information. Email info@montenegro-eco.com. WhatsApp +382 69 123 076
The website for Nikena Eco Adventures is montenegro-eco.com
The tour is special because Nikola knows so many people and he has the contacts in order to book places to visit that are meaningful to really get to know Montenegro. You could never get this on a self-guided tour. The tour is very affordable by any tour standards and Nikola is very responsive to questions and flexible to tailor a tour to your needs.
Our guide, Djordje, was simply the best. Like Nikola, Djordje knows everyone. We never went into a city or village without someone coming up to Djordje to say hello. How can you beat this type of local connection? You can’t.
Djordje picked us up in Dubrovnik in a very modern, comfortable van. It was just the three of us for the week so we had plenty of room for our bags. The tour was well planned and we always knew well in advance what we would be doing for the day. The attention to detail by MEA is clear and noticeable. The B & B accommodations were excellent and we would not have changed any of them. I will not necessarily speak directly to each one because we would not hesitate to stay in them again.
KOTOR
Kotor is a coastal city protected by Boka Bay (actually makes up four bays) and we stayed there two nights at the Babilon Apartments. We toured the old city where the cruise ships dock and would have spent more time there if the weather had been better. The town of Perast was historically the protector of Kotor as all ships had to pass by Perast to enter Kotor. There is a narrow entrance into the bay near Perast that provides a natural fortification for Kotor.
Using Kotor as our base, we travelled for a boat tour to the Blue Caves on the Adriatic coast near the entrance to Boka Bay. The cave is relatively small but the blue water is nice and it gets very busy there during the peak tourist time of July and August.
We made an afternoon stop at Klinci Village Resort for lunch and a talk with a 17th generation Montenegrin. The Sarma (cabbage rolls) were very good and it was preceded by a drink of Rakija and followed by more lunch. Most meals in Montenegro start with a shot of Rakija which is made of most types of fruit and is 40% to 50% alcohol. There is always tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese, bread and prosciutto to start as well. No need for supper in Montenegro after the big lunches!
We brought Saskatoon Berry jam to give as a gift to our hosts at the various places we stopped. The gifts were much appreciated as were the few words we used in Montenegrin to show our respect for the Montenegrin people and their culture.
It was fascinating to listen to Bogdan speak of his family history and the current transition from Communism to a market system. The pride is evident and the challenges are real.
NATIONAL PARK LOVCEN and CETINJE
We travelled from Kotor to the National Park Lovcen over a switchback highway with spectacular views of Boka Bay and Kotor. These were some of the prettiest views you will see in the world. For comparison, think of the the Icefield Parkway from Jaspar National Park to Banff National Park in Canada.
We did a 10 kilometre hike in National Park Lovcen and it was enjoyable and quite workable. We stayed at the Monte Rosa in the Park and it was a nice hotel with good food.
After leaving National Park Lovcen we went to Cetinje, the former capital of Montenegro. The capital was moved to the mountains in Cetinje after 1452 when the Ottomans invaded Montenegro. We toured the city, including a monastery and King Nicholas I’s home. Nicholas reigned as the sovereign prince of Montenegro from 1860 to 1918.
In the afternoon we had lunch and a visit to the home of a honey farmer and fruit grower. The owner made honey from his hives and made liquor from the fruit he grew. His Rakija and brandy was excellent. The lunch was tasty and large in keeping with Montenegrin hospitality.
VIRPAZAR – SKADAR LAKE
Our next two nights were spent in Virpazar which is on Skadar Lake. What a beautiful area. We have left the mountains and moved back down to the water.
We stayed at the Country House Djurisic hosted by Marko. Marko is hands down the most passionate B & B owner we have ever met. He is young, energetic and very proud his history and he wants his B & B to be the best. His attention to detail and caring for his guests far exceeds the standards of most hosts. If you visit Montenegro you must meet Marko.
We had a 5 hour private boat tour of Skadar Lake. The weather was good and Miro our boat guide was knowledgable about the area and about the lake. We stopped for lunch at a fishing village and had some amazing fish soup and baked trout. Skadar Lake is quite large and is situated in both Montenegro and Albania.
PODGORICA – MOUNTAIN AREA
Podgorica is the capital of Montenegro and we stayed here two nights as we toured the mountain area north and east of Podgorica. Our boutique hotel was the Hemera and the service was excellent. We were very busy these two days and really need to go back to Podgorica to see more of the city.
On our first full day we travelled to the mountains to see a forest which has some of the oldest trees in the world. We did a short walk at a lake in the forest before stopping for a coffee break. After we made our way to a rural household of a woodcarver. He carves portraits as well as the traditional Montenegrin string instrument, the Gusle. The Gusle was played as stories were sung by the singer to pass on the history of heroes to other generations.
We had a wonderful lunch at the woodcarver’s home. They made a potato and cheese dish that was fried and mixed with cream cheese for serving with sour cream as well. Lots of calories for hardworking tourists! Naturally, we had many varieties of Rakija before the tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese, bread and prosciutto were served.
On our last full day in Montenegro we went up to the Ostrog Monastery which is built into the mountains 900 meters high above the Zeta Valley. The high, remote area provided security for the relics during the Ottoman occupation. This is a pilgrimage spot for many devote Orthodox Christians.
In the afternoon, we traveled into the countryside in the area of Niksicko, known for their beer making, to visit Svetozar’s house for a traditional Montenegrin “meal under the bell”. This was a special treat in so many ways. The taste of the food could only be surpassed by the hospitality and fun we had with the hosts.
Svetozar was interested in knowing about our Canadian heritage and he provided us with his family history and we toured his wine and liquor making building. His Rakija was excellent and it burned nicely when tossed onto the fire. The 50% alcohol aided the burning process!
The meal was superb as we expected from the wonderful smell as it was cooking. A feast to be sure. This is another of the “can’t miss” places to visit in Montenegro.
On the last morning in Podgorica we went to the Radevic Estate Winery, hosted by the owner, a retired Doctor who is a 21st generation Montenegrin. The wines we tasted were very good and the chardonnay is perhaps the best I have tasted anywhere. His buildings are impressive and his 1,500 case production is sold in New York and to high end restaurants. The pride of ownership, heritage and quality are front and centre.
The following sign in the sales office speaks to a good sense of humour as well.
Alas, our time in Montenegro came to an end. We were sad to leave Montenegro and it was easy to know why – the people we met.
Over time we may not remember the view of a mountain or the water; however, we will not soon forget the people and hospitality that is Montenegro. With young entrepreneurs we met like Nikola, Djordje and Marko, we know Montenegro is in good hands. Thank you, my friends.
My second cup is now empty…………………………..