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Lisbon – Porto – April 2024
Category: Travel – Europe
Amsterdam – May 2019
My wife and I went to Europe for three weeks in May 2019 and covered Budapest, Croatia, Montenegro and Amsterdam. I will break the trip into four different reviews as they each deserve their own attention.
We flew into Amsterdam from Podgorica, Montenegro on Polish Air. All was good.
This was our first trip to Amsterdam and we took a taxi from the airport. It was a Sunday and a main road was closed for the weekend for construction so the taxi ride was quite a bit more expensive. Perhaps consider Uber as an option. We used Uber to get back to the airport and it was about 35 Euro.
We stayed five nights at the La Remise B & B. The location is perfect and the breakfast is very good. The room and bathroom was quite large and we were very comfortable. There are some steep stairs that could bother some people; however, all was good for us. There are lots of restaurants in the area and decent walking distance to many attractions. The Rijks Museum was basically around the corner as were the tour bus stop and canal tour stop. We will stay at La Remise when we return to Amsterdam. We paid about $300 CDN per night ($225 USD) for the La Remise B & B.
We did a City bus tour to get a feel for the City and it gave us some good information. The canals are fabulous to look at and they seem endless. Walking is flat and easy because there is so much to look at as you stroll around.
We toured the Rijks Museum and it was very nice. They had an additional Rembrandt showing to compliment the permanent painting in their collection. We could not get into the Van Gogh Museum or the Anne Frank House because the online tickets were sold out well in advance. This would be a tip for planning as you need to order these tickets well in advance.
We walked to the De Gooyer Windmill which is the tallest in the Netherlands. There was no tour as it is closed and you can only enjoy the visual aspects of this Dutch icon.
We continued our walk to the Dutch Resistance Museum. This is well worth the time, particularly if you are interested in WWII history. Be sure to use the free listening device and move slowly as you learn how it works.
The Red Light District is an easy walk through. It is not that big and we were not interested in stopping. Kind of sad actually.
A nice treat was the Reypenaer Wine and Cheese Tasting. We received a good presentation of various Dutch cheeses with some good wine pairings. It took about an hour and we has a good time. Highly recommend this and suggest you book online in advance.
https://www.reypenaercheese.com/en/home
We went to two markets. One was the Blumen flower market and the other was on Albert Cuypstraat street. The flower market is centrally located and, aside from the flowers, there are mostly souvenirs.
The Albert market is huge and is on a closed street. Lots of good souvenirs, clothes and street food. The chicken we had was excellent. I even purchased a jacket. If you buy anything over 50 Euro you can get the tax back at the airport before you go through security to board your flight. Be sure the sales invoice clearly shows the amount of tax paid or you may encounter problems getting the tax back.
The canal tour we took was about 90 minutes and is a great way to see the City from the water. The tour is narrated to point out some of the building highlights. You really notice how quiet it is on the water and you will appreciate this relaxing time. This tour is a must if you are going to Amsterdam.
Our walks always included a stop for coffee or beer. No problem finding good places to stop.
We found some great restaurants by checking on Trip Advisor. The Chicken Bar had a simple menu of rotisserie chicken and side dishes and it is well worth going to. We did not have a reservation but you may need one in the future.
http://chickenbar.amsterdam/en/about/
The Pantry was our best find as the food was excellent and the service was equally as good. We went without a reservation and got in only because they had a no show. The Dutch traditional meal was amazing! It was so good we made a reservation for the next night. I tried the beef stew, potato and red cabbage. My wife could not resist having the traditional Dutch meal for a second time. With the main courses, small salads, dessert, sparkling water, a bottle of wine, the total bill came to $110 CDN ($80 USD) before tip. we thought his was very good and very affordable. Other places are more expensive. Be sure to make a reservation.
As you move around Amsterdam be aware of all the bicycles and motorbikes. They know where they are going and as tourists we are novices in the city. Look both ways and see when it is safe to cross the road, bike lane and sometimes a train track as well.
Amsterdam is a fairly expensive city. Be prepared for this ahead of time to avoid surprises. We had no trouble finding affordable restaurants.
Amsterdam has a lot to offer for a vacation. We will be back to cover many of the places we did not see. Can’t wait!
My second cup is now empty…………………………
Montenegro – May 2019 – Don’t Miss this Trip!
My wife and I went to Europe for three weeks in May 2019 and covered Budapest, Croatia, Montenegro and Amsterdam. I will break the trip into four different reviews as they each deserve their own attention.
We spent a week in Montenegro on a privately guided tour and it was fantastic! This is the way to see Montenegro and in particular the way to meet the wonderfully proud people of Montenegro.
Our friends did the same tour last year and because of their rave reviews we booked for May this year. We could not have been happier with the tour, the people involved in the tour and all the Montenegrins who opened their homes to us to speak of their heritage and their country. The tour company is Montenegro Eco Adventures “MEA” [EDIT New Name Nikena Eco Adventures] and the manager is a dedicated young man – Nikola Radovic. Contact information. Email info@montenegro-eco.com. WhatsApp +382 69 123 076
The website for Nikena Eco Adventures is montenegro-eco.com
The tour is special because Nikola knows so many people and he has the contacts in order to book places to visit that are meaningful to really get to know Montenegro. You could never get this on a self-guided tour. The tour is very affordable by any tour standards and Nikola is very responsive to questions and flexible to tailor a tour to your needs.
Our guide, Djordje, was simply the best. Like Nikola, Djordje knows everyone. We never went into a city or village without someone coming up to Djordje to say hello. How can you beat this type of local connection? You can’t.
Djordje picked us up in Dubrovnik in a very modern, comfortable van. It was just the three of us for the week so we had plenty of room for our bags. The tour was well planned and we always knew well in advance what we would be doing for the day. The attention to detail by MEA is clear and noticeable. The B & B accommodations were excellent and we would not have changed any of them. I will not necessarily speak directly to each one because we would not hesitate to stay in them again.
KOTOR
Kotor is a coastal city protected by Boka Bay (actually makes up four bays) and we stayed there two nights at the Babilon Apartments. We toured the old city where the cruise ships dock and would have spent more time there if the weather had been better. The town of Perast was historically the protector of Kotor as all ships had to pass by Perast to enter Kotor. There is a narrow entrance into the bay near Perast that provides a natural fortification for Kotor.
Using Kotor as our base, we travelled for a boat tour to the Blue Caves on the Adriatic coast near the entrance to Boka Bay. The cave is relatively small but the blue water is nice and it gets very busy there during the peak tourist time of July and August.
We made an afternoon stop at Klinci Village Resort for lunch and a talk with a 17th generation Montenegrin. The Sarma (cabbage rolls) were very good and it was preceded by a drink of Rakija and followed by more lunch. Most meals in Montenegro start with a shot of Rakija which is made of most types of fruit and is 40% to 50% alcohol. There is always tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese, bread and prosciutto to start as well. No need for supper in Montenegro after the big lunches!
We brought Saskatoon Berry jam to give as a gift to our hosts at the various places we stopped. The gifts were much appreciated as were the few words we used in Montenegrin to show our respect for the Montenegrin people and their culture.
It was fascinating to listen to Bogdan speak of his family history and the current transition from Communism to a market system. The pride is evident and the challenges are real.
NATIONAL PARK LOVCEN and CETINJE
We travelled from Kotor to the National Park Lovcen over a switchback highway with spectacular views of Boka Bay and Kotor. These were some of the prettiest views you will see in the world. For comparison, think of the the Icefield Parkway from Jaspar National Park to Banff National Park in Canada.
We did a 10 kilometre hike in National Park Lovcen and it was enjoyable and quite workable. We stayed at the Monte Rosa in the Park and it was a nice hotel with good food.
After leaving National Park Lovcen we went to Cetinje, the former capital of Montenegro. The capital was moved to the mountains in Cetinje after 1452 when the Ottomans invaded Montenegro. We toured the city, including a monastery and King Nicholas I’s home. Nicholas reigned as the sovereign prince of Montenegro from 1860 to 1918.
In the afternoon we had lunch and a visit to the home of a honey farmer and fruit grower. The owner made honey from his hives and made liquor from the fruit he grew. His Rakija and brandy was excellent. The lunch was tasty and large in keeping with Montenegrin hospitality.
VIRPAZAR – SKADAR LAKE
Our next two nights were spent in Virpazar which is on Skadar Lake. What a beautiful area. We have left the mountains and moved back down to the water.
We stayed at the Country House Djurisic hosted by Marko. Marko is hands down the most passionate B & B owner we have ever met. He is young, energetic and very proud his history and he wants his B & B to be the best. His attention to detail and caring for his guests far exceeds the standards of most hosts. If you visit Montenegro you must meet Marko.
We had a 5 hour private boat tour of Skadar Lake. The weather was good and Miro our boat guide was knowledgable about the area and about the lake. We stopped for lunch at a fishing village and had some amazing fish soup and baked trout. Skadar Lake is quite large and is situated in both Montenegro and Albania.
PODGORICA – MOUNTAIN AREA
Podgorica is the capital of Montenegro and we stayed here two nights as we toured the mountain area north and east of Podgorica. Our boutique hotel was the Hemera and the service was excellent. We were very busy these two days and really need to go back to Podgorica to see more of the city.
On our first full day we travelled to the mountains to see a forest which has some of the oldest trees in the world. We did a short walk at a lake in the forest before stopping for a coffee break. After we made our way to a rural household of a woodcarver. He carves portraits as well as the traditional Montenegrin string instrument, the Gusle. The Gusle was played as stories were sung by the singer to pass on the history of heroes to other generations.
We had a wonderful lunch at the woodcarver’s home. They made a potato and cheese dish that was fried and mixed with cream cheese for serving with sour cream as well. Lots of calories for hardworking tourists! Naturally, we had many varieties of Rakija before the tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese, bread and prosciutto were served.
On our last full day in Montenegro we went up to the Ostrog Monastery which is built into the mountains 900 meters high above the Zeta Valley. The high, remote area provided security for the relics during the Ottoman occupation. This is a pilgrimage spot for many devote Orthodox Christians.
In the afternoon, we traveled into the countryside in the area of Niksicko, known for their beer making, to visit Svetozar’s house for a traditional Montenegrin “meal under the bell”. This was a special treat in so many ways. The taste of the food could only be surpassed by the hospitality and fun we had with the hosts.
Svetozar was interested in knowing about our Canadian heritage and he provided us with his family history and we toured his wine and liquor making building. His Rakija was excellent and it burned nicely when tossed onto the fire. The 50% alcohol aided the burning process!
The meal was superb as we expected from the wonderful smell as it was cooking. A feast to be sure. This is another of the “can’t miss” places to visit in Montenegro.
On the last morning in Podgorica we went to the Radevic Estate Winery, hosted by the owner, a retired Doctor who is a 21st generation Montenegrin. The wines we tasted were very good and the chardonnay is perhaps the best I have tasted anywhere. His buildings are impressive and his 1,500 case production is sold in New York and to high end restaurants. The pride of ownership, heritage and quality are front and centre.
The following sign in the sales office speaks to a good sense of humour as well.
Alas, our time in Montenegro came to an end. We were sad to leave Montenegro and it was easy to know why – the people we met.
Over time we may not remember the view of a mountain or the water; however, we will not soon forget the people and hospitality that is Montenegro. With young entrepreneurs we met like Nikola, Djordje and Marko, we know Montenegro is in good hands. Thank you, my friends.
My second cup is now empty…………………………..
Croatia – May 2019
My wife and I went to Europe for three weeks in May 2019 and covered Budapest, Croatia, Montenegro and Amsterdam. I will break the trip into four different reviews as they each deserve their own attention.
We were Croatia for a week and spent one night in Zagreb, three nights in each of Split and Dubrovnik. The currency in Croatia is the Kuna, although they will accept the Euro in many places, especially cash in the market shops. The exchange is very poor so it is best to pay with Kuna.
ZAGREB
We took a train from Budapest to Zagreb as we wanted the experience of a train ride to see the countryside. It was about a 5 hour ride and all was comfortable but not quite like the trains in France or Italy. It was a relaxing trip and we are glad we did the trip by train.
Zagreb is the capital of Croatia and is located in the interior of the country away from the Adriatic Sea. We only spent one night there and really there is not much to do in the city.
We took a narrated bus tour of the city which was good and we learned a lot about the city history and the buildings. We were glad we stopped but we do not expect to go back as we covered all that was needed.
We stayed about a 5 minute walk from the train station at the Astoria Best Western and it was great. The room was excellent and the buffet breakfast was very good. We arrived late at night just before the restaurant closed and they accommodated us with a burger, ham sandwich and hot french fries. Superb service.
SPLIT
We booked a train from Zagreb to Split; however, there were maintenance issues and they sent us by bus instead of the train. The bus ride was comfortable for a 5 hour trip. There was no washroom on the bus and they made one stop at a truck stop for short break. The bus driver was not helpful and we would caution travellers about this travel option.
Split is very picturesque and definitely worth a visit. It is situated on the Adriatic Sea and has a deep port for the large cruise ships to dock.
We stayed at the Splendida Palace B & B. Wow, this was an excellent place to stay as the service was clearly above typical accommodations. The B & B is family owned and Marija was great to deal with from the reservation to our final checkout. She picked us up in her car at the bus station and Anna, a front desk employee, carried our bags up to our room. The breakfast was a buffet and was all we needed. The location was close to restaurants, the market and the main promenade on the water. No question for us we would stay here again if we return. The price was very reasonable.
http://splendidapalace.com/split/
Split is a very old city and the Diocletian’s Palace is the centrepiece on the water. The Palace is now home to small tourist shops and restaurants. The promenade out front right on the water is lined with restaurants to greet the cruise ship tourists.
We had better weather on our second full day and we walked up to the top of the hill where the flag and lookout point are situated. There is a coffee shop about 2/3 of the way up and we stopped there on our way down. It is about a 45 minute walk one way. It has some elevation so people with mobility issues may not want to go. The views of the old city and port are spectacular.
We had some good meals in Split. You can expect to pay more than Budapest or Zagreb as this is a tourist town. There were two places in particular that I would recommend trying if you visit Split.
The Bokeria is located in the Palace area and they do not rush you. A reservation is necessary and we quite enjoyed a relaxing meal. We had an appetizer, main course, dessert, sparkling water and a bottle of local wine for $160 CDN ($125 USD), including tip.
We went to the Bokamora for supper without a reservation. The restaurant was recommended for the pizza and all was spot on. Probably the best pizza I’ve ever had. There was four kinds of cured ham on the pizza with fresh toppings. No processed meat. A large pizza to share, beer, sparkling water and tip and the bill came to $45 CDN ($34 USD). Very affordable.
If you plan a trip to Split, three nights is all you need. A great place to visit and once you see it you should be good as the cruise ship tourists make it crowded.
DUBROVNIK
We had a driver and car pick us up in Split and take us on a day tour that ended at our accommodation in Dubrovnik. We stopped at a winery for an owner guided tour and tasting. The cost was 300 Euro and it was nice to go door to door and have a guided day tour as well.
Dubrovnik, set on the Adriatic Sea, is similar to Split in many ways but the walled city makes Dubrovnik something special to visit. Three nights is plenty to see all Dubrovnik has to offer and after a while the cruise ship tourists rolling through gets tiring. Be prepared for some walking and there is elevation (more than Split) depending on where you stay.
We stayed at the Apartment Love & Hope which was about a 20 minute walk, with elevation, to the Ploce Gate entrance at the walled city. It was 800 sq ft on two levels and had everything we needed. The price was good for a tourist city and the views from the balcony were the absolute best.
https://www.dubrovnikapartment-center.com
The main attraction is to visit the walled city and walk around the wall. It took us about 90 minutes to make the entire trip around and it is a beautiful walk on a nice day. We had perfect weather and all the views are spectacular.
There is a tram that goes from Dubrovnik up the mountain to overlook the city. It was shutdown because the operating company was not paying their taxes. We took a taxi to the top and we were not disappointed. Magnificent views.
We had some good meals in Dubrovnik and particularly enjoyed having a beer or coffee on the main street in the walled city. We had supper at the Restaurant Dubrovnik which is also designated a Michelin restaurant. The food was excellent and priced as you would expect at a high end restaurant.
Our last night we ate at the Dubravka Restaurant which is right on the water. We had the best table overlooking the water and it was a very good meal. There was no rush and the servers were very good. We had a main course, sparkling water and a bottle of wine. With tip, the total was $150 CDN ($115 USD). Very good considering where we were.
Dubrovnik is a city that you need to see. It has a rich history and the architecture of the wall and the buildings makes Dubrovnik very different from other cities.
My second cup is now empty…………………..
Budapest – May 2019
My wife and I went to Europe for three weeks in May 2019 and covered Budapest, Croatia, Montenegro and Amsterdam. I will break the trip into four different reviews as they each deserve their own attention.
We flew overnight into Amsterdam and then over to Budapest and arrived in the early afternoon. We took a taxi from the airport and the taxi driver provided a printout of the fare based on the kilometres and the rate. I think they do this to give people greater certainty that the ride price is fairly calculated. Our other taxi trips were all done in the same way.
This was our second visit to Budapest, although the first trip was only for a couple of days before we boarded a Danube river cruise. We wanted to come back and get a better sense for the city. We were not disappointed with our three night stay.
We used Trip Advisor to find a B & B in a central location that was within walking distance to restaurants and attractions. The Carat Boutique Hotel in the Jewish Quarter worked perfectly for us. The price was reasonable and the location was superb.
This is a modern hotel and the rooms are comfortable and a good size. The bathroom was quite large. We had a room facing the interior and not the street and this is best as the street can get busy at night.
They provided an excellent buffet breakfast (eggs, meat, rolls, cereal, cheese and even champagne) and they had staff ready to assist with seating and keeping the buffet fresh. You could not walk away hungry.
http://www.caratboutiquehotelbudapest.com
Because we only had two full days, we could not cover everything the city had to offer. We did a “City Sightseeing” hop on, hop off city tour which is our typical first move when we are visiting a city. The ticket was good for two days and included a water boat tour on the Danube. There are a couple of city tour options and we found a helpful ticket seller near the hotel and there was also a bus stop close by. The tour is a good way to acquaint yourself with the various places you want to go back to when you have time. We usually make the full loop to ensure we see everything once.
There were three things we wanted to cover in the short time we had in addition to the city bus tour – the Great Market Hall, the Buda Hills and Castle and the Danube River Cruise.
The Great Market Hall
This is an impressive market that is huge. The first floor has fresh vegetables, fruit and meat where the locals do their daily shopping. There is a never ending supply of paprika as well – a must buy in Hungary.
The second floor has crafts, clothes, souvenirs and cooked food options for the tourists. There are some wonderful locally made items and it is worth the look. When you get tired, try some goulash or chicken dishes.
You can easily spend a couple hours or more exploring this market.
Buda Hills and Castle
We went up to the Buda Hills and Castle on the city bus tour and we were able to get off and walk around the Castle area. The views of the Danube and the Pest side are very good. Take a walk around and enjoy.
Danube River Cruise
The river cruise was part of the ticket we intentionally purchased with the city bus tour. It was about 60 minutes and the boat was a good size and all felt very safe. We slowly went down the Danube with narration and around Margaret Island and back to the dock. The weather was good so that made it all worthwhile. I don’t think it would be quite the same in the rain.
Restaurants
There are some excellent places to eat or stop for a beer in the central part of Budapest. We quite enjoyed the “Red Pepper Hungarian Restaurant” which is beside the British Embassy, the “Cafe Vian” and “Jamie Oliver Pizza”
The restaurants are very affordable and the tip is usually included in the total bill. Just review the bill and it usually indicates if the tip is included.
A must have in Budapest is a Chimney Cake. This delightful pastry with a cinnamon coating is so good. Don’t leave Budapest without having at least one.
Random Information
Budapest is a wonderful city to visit. We were told that since Hungary joined the European Union in 2007 there is money flowing in for building refurbishing and city upgrades. You can see the work all over the city.
The official currency in Hungary is the Forint. They have not adopted the Euro even though they are in the European Union. The Euro is accepted in most places; however, the exchange rate is not great. We found it was best to use Forints in all cases.
If you are going to Budapest for the first time I would suggest at least four nights to give yourself enough time to see the main parts of the city. You can easily walk around and enjoy the Danube in a very relaxing manner.
We do hope we get the opportunity to return one day.
My second cup is now empty……………………………
Ireland
We made our first trip to Ireland in May 2017 with another couple and we are already planning to go back! Ireland is a great place to visit and there is no shortage of things to do. We spent two weeks and you need all of that time. The weather was quite good with only a couple of days of light rain and it did not stop us from doing anything at all.
We flew into Dublin and spent three nights before joining our six night bus tour that returned us to Dublin where we had one more night before taking the train to Belfast where we stayed three nights. I will outline our travels city by city after covering some basics.
- Overall Considerations
Money wise, you will need Euro for Ireland and Irish Pounds or British Pounds for Northern Ireland. Best spend your Irish Pounds before you leave Northern Ireland. We did have some Irish Pounds when we went to London and a Pub did take them after the waitress talked to her manager.
The Guinness and other beer is excellent in the Pubs and the Pub food is very tasty and we did not hesitate to eat at a Pub. The fish is always fresh and the chips (fries) are hot. The Irish stew was good as was the bangers (sausage) and mashed potatoes and gravy. Surprisingly, we did not gain any weight in Ireland and it must have been because of all the walking as I had two to three pints of beer a day!
We did not rent a car in Ireland because they drive on the other side of the road and the cars are almost all standards. Combine this with narrow roads and we thought we would leave the driving to someone else. In Dublin and Belfast we walked or took tours. The six-day bus tour was with Royal Irish Tours and they were excellent. They are a Canadian travel company specializing in Ireland and we would have no hesitation going with them again. https://www.royalirishtours.com
The bus was not crowded and there was a dedicated driver and a separate tour guide providing information as we travelled. There was a washroom on the bus; however, it was not needed as there were plenty of stops on our daily travels.
- Dublin
It felt like a slow process to clear Customs when we arrived in Dublin. Perhaps it was a number of planes arriving at the same time or maybe we were just tired from the overnight flight. We took a cab from the airport to our hotel and there was a fixed fare from the airport to the downtown. This went well and no issues. We stayed at the Albany Guesthouse and made the reservation four months in advance. It has a good central location; however, the Trip Advisor reviews are correct – if you get a room facing the street it is noisy at night from the nightclub down the street. I contacted them a week before our trip to see if we could get a room off the street and, given we booked so far in advance, I thought we would be fine. We were not and they made no effort to get us a different room. We will not stay there again.
We were close to St Stephen’s Green and Trinity College and I think this is the area to stay in. It is nice walking through the park and people really get out and use the park. On a Sunday it was full of families and people enjoying a gorgeous day and having picnics. Trinity College is well worth the tour and you must see The Book of Kells and visit the historic library.
We did a City bus tour and it covered the many highlights of the river, churches and parks. It gave us a good sense of what we needed to go back and see in the two full days we had in Dublin.
The Guinness Brewery was good to tour and we finished off with a pint at the top of the building overlooking parts of the city. We were able to walk here from the downtown area where we stayed.
We had an afternoon beer and snacks at the Brazen Head which is Ireland’s oldest Pub established in 1198. Good all around.
There is no problem walking around Dublin and finding restaurants and pubs. The shopping is mostly tourist “knick knacks”. You can also get your Starbucks fix as needed.
If you have three or four nights in Dublin you should be able to easily cover all the places you want to see.
- Bunratty
We stayed at the Bunratty Castle Hotel (not the picture shown below) the first night of our bus tour. https://www.bunrattycastlehotel.com.
Royal Irish tours booked all the accommodation and we were not disappointed. Large, comfortable rooms in all cases and I would say 4 stars. Durty Nellie’s Pub is a short walk from the Hotel and they have great beer and pub food. We ordered inside and sat on tables outside in the sun. Very pleasant and a good place to start the country tour.
- Killarney
We spent three nights in Killarney and did day tours to the country. This was very nice because we were not moving suitcases every day and there was a good feel to come back to the same place every night. The hotel was the Earls Court and the breakfasts were wonderful. https://www.killarney-earlscourt.ie. We also had dinner there a couple of nights and it was good as well.
From Killarney we toured the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula. On the way we visited a working sheep farm and we were given a demonstration of how the sheep dogs work the flock based on commands from the farmer. This was one of the highlights of the trip. The farmer had 3,000 sheep covering 3,000 acres of land. The land is rocky and hilly and probably only good for sheep farming. The price of raw wool is not good at one Euro for one sheared sheep and the farmer makes a living by giving the demonstrations to tourists.
We also did a horse-drawn carriage ride through Killarney National Park and our driver was third generation. The tour departs and returns from the downtown Killarney.
After leaving Killarney we stopped at Blarney Castle and Gardens on the way to Kilkenny. Of course, we had to kiss the Blarney Stone which is at the top of the castle and you must navigate a winding staircase to get to the top. The view is quite nice and the gardens are worth seeing.
- Kilkenny
We were in Kilkenny for two nights right downtown at the Kilkenny Ormonde Hotel. https://www.kilkennyormonde.com.
The hotel has a good location for walking and we found a local pub called The Field that was just down the street and around the corner. They had live Irish music in the evenings and we went there both nights we were in Kilkenny. The manager was good to talk to and it was a good Irish experience. http://www.thefieldkilkenny.com/
We toured the Waterford Crystal factory, the Irish Stud Farm and Gardens and an Irish Famine Ship while in the Kilkenny area. They were all quite good. The Famine Ship brought Irish settlers to North America in the 1800’s when the potato famine left many Irish starving with no economic means to support themselves. A very good history lesson.
- Belfast, Northern Ireland
From Kilkenny we went back to Dublin and the bus tour ended for us. The next day we took a two-hour train to Belfast in Northern Ireland. The train was comfortable and the time passed quickly as we visited with a couple of women from Northern Ireland who had come to Dublin for a concert.
We stayed at the IBIS Belfast Queen’s Quarter which is located in the university district. https://www.ibisbelfastqueens.com/
The hotel is modern and was a good choice for us. It was easy walking downtown for restaurants and sightseeing. The price was good for what was provided and you could have breakfast for an extra charge if you wanted.
We really liked Belfast. The best tour we did was the Black Taxi Tour. A must to do to learn about the history of the troubles between the Catholics and the Protestants. http://blacktaxitours.com.
They tour driver picked us up at the hotel and we went for almost two and a half hours. There was a lot of information to absorb and there is still a wall that separates parts of the Belfast. Once we were done he even dropped us off at the Titanic Museum.
The Titanic Museum is very well done and definitely worth spending the afternoon touring. Many people do not know that the Titanic was an Irish ship built in the Belfast Shipyards. The museum does a good job outlining the history and respecting the loss of life on her maiden voyage that ended in the Atlantic Ocean off Newfoundland.
Another highlight was the Giants Causeway. We did a day tour out of Belfast with Paddywagon Tours and we would not go with them again. The bus sound system was poor and the front drivers window kept fogging up and the driver was using a cloth to clear it. At one point he even got a passenger to wipe the side window so he could see his mirror.
We made a couple of stops on the way to see a Game of Thrones filming site as well as a walking bridge on the ocean before getting to the Giants Causeway. We walked down to the Causeway site and took a bus back as it started to rain. The site itself is amazing because the rock formations can not really be explained as they are so unique.
The two weeks ended far too soon and we can’t wait to get back to Ireland to visit Galway and revisit Killarney, Cork and Kilkenny.
My second cup is now empty……………………………….
London, England
We have been to London twice – the last being May 2017 and this is a great city to visit. We spent a week in above average weather after being in Ireland for two weeks. Hard to believe we could still enjoy a cold Guinness after being in Ireland, yet we persevered in London!
London is a good walking city and the Tube works well for underground transportation. Because the weather was so nice, we did more walking than if it had been raining and cold. There is so much to see in London that you need to have a plan to get it all done.
We have taken the Tube in from Heathrow and no problems as we stayed within a 12 – 15 minute walk from Victoria Station. Victoria Station is the heartbeat of transportation in London. The Tube, buses and trains all arrive and leave from here. You can buy an Oyster card at Heathrow to manage all your Tube and bus transportation. We found the Oyster card simplified our travel around the city. Just provide your travel plans and the helpful attendants will get you the right amount on your Oyster card. If you have money left over it can be used another time, refunded or transferred to another card.
In May, we took the train from Gatwick airport to Victoria Station on the “London Gatwick Express” and prearranged the ticket. Very simple and quite efficient. From Victoria Station it was no problem to walk to our accommodation.
- Luna Simone Hotel
We stayed at the Luna Simone Hotel for both our trips and have recommended this Hotel to a number of our friends who have had excellent stays as well. We would not consider staying anywhere else in London. The contact website is https://www.lunasimonehotel.com.
The location is fantastic as it is not far from Victoria Station or from Pimlico Station. There are very good restaurants and pubs in the area and I will cover some of them later. The central locations allows for walking to many of the attractions including Buckingham Palace, Westminster or Trafalgar Square.
The hotel does not have an elevator and there are at least three floors, so if mobility is an issue you best call ahead to request a main floor unit. The hosts are quite happy to help with luggage if it is an issue. We stayed 71 steps up and we managed ourselves just fine.
The rooms are not huge, yet are comfortable and what you would expect in Europe. The bathrooms are very good and the rooms are quiet even when facing the street.
Breakfast is included and it is a full offering with eggs, bacon, toast, cereal, yogurt, muesli, beans, coffee, juice and tea. Some or all, your choice. The breakfast room is comfortable and you get a chance to talk to other travellers. The hosts are friendly and can offer suggestions or answer your travel questions as well.
We paid about $255 CDN or $200 US per night and feel this was very fair.
- Restaurants
O Sole Mio – right on the corner near the Luna Simone. Italian food and tasty with good service. We also did take out pizza one night and it was very good. There is a confectionary across the street for snacks and drinks.
Grumbles – just next door to the O Sole Mio and we ate outside. A very small restaurant and the menu changes. A reservation may be necessary.
Constitution Pub – across the street from Grumbles. Great for a cold beer and pub food.
Coffee house – Just down from Grumbles and some outside seating.
Gail’s – breads and pastries is just down from the Constitution and is very good. The chocolate croissants go down very well with coffee.
The B Bar – On Buckingham Palace Road down from Victoria Station. We have been here three times and the food is quite good. You can dress a little nicer in the evening as I believe they get a clientele that is going out for the evening.
The Crypt – Located at St Martins in the Fields near the National Gallery and Trafalgar Square. The restaurant is on the lower level and is set up cafeteria style. The food is good and the setting is different.
Pubs – We tried a variety of pubs and the food was good and the Guinness was all we needed. Take a break and give your feet a rest!
- Attractions
We covered most of the highlights and were not disappointed. There are far more out there and you will have to find your favourites. Many of the galleries and museums are free and a tourist guide will point these out as well as the attractions that have an entrance fee.
Be careful when walking and look to your “right” first as the traffic flow is different from Canada and the United States.
Buckingham Palace – A 25 minute walk from the Luna Simone. A must see and lots of photo opportunities. I thought it would be bigger, but it is still impressive, particularly, when you see how the parks all link together.
Hyde Park, Green Park and St. James Park – Beautiful green space and lots of walking opportunity. You will have a plenty of company, yet it is very relaxing. Take your time and watch the people and scenery. We saw mounted guards riding through the park and it was quite majestic.
British Museum and National Gallery – You can spent a great deal of time in both and not have covered everything. Plan your time well and get there early as it gets busy at both places. The British Museum was saving and protecting artifacts when we in North America were living in sod huts. A true sense of history.
Tower of London – This was an absolute favourite for me. We caught a walking tour lead by a Yeoman Warder. These men are retired military who have distinguished themselves during their service. They provide an enormous amount of factual information and do so with a good sense of humour. A guided tour is a must to get the most out of the Tower of London.
Westminster Abbey – A 20 minute walk from the Luna Simone. There is no lack of history here and for many people the walk in the Chapel is like the Hockey Hall of Fame for me. I quite enjoyed Poets Corner and it is hard not to be impressed with the massive structure.
The War Museum – So, so for me. A self guided museum with a number of floors. Lots of room to get around, although, there was no mention about the battle at Vimy Ridge and the Canadians role in taking the Ridge that no one before them could. I’m still waiting for a response to my email regarding why this was omitted from the museum. Overall, it was a good review of the British war involvement and a couple of hours is all you need.
Churchill’s War Rooms – The underground war rooms were far larger in area then I expected. I thought they would have been for Churchill and his closest advisors only. In fact, Churchill basically ran the British second world war involvement from these rooms. There were a lot of people working down there in support of the war effort and it probably got a bit crowded. If I had to choose, I would do this ahead of The War Museum.
Windsor Castle – Another favourite of mine. There is no need to pay for an organized tour to get to Windsor Castle. You can take the Tube to Paddington Station and then take a 45 minute train ride to Windsor. Walk out of the train station and there is Windsor Castle. You must pay for a self guided tour and I enjoyed the grounds and castle. We were able to see the State Apartments and the changing of the guard. Be sure to have an expensive ice cream from the Royal Creamery. The grounds are beautiful and the views are wonderful.
After the tour of the castle, we went to the Two Brewers for a refreshing beverage. It is a little walk down a street to get there and worth it. We were back in London by early afternoon.
Greenwich Village – We took the Tube out to Greenwich and it does take a bit of time. There is also a water taxi to get there that we would look into next time. Of course, you must see the prime meridian and check out some souvenirs. There is also a marine museum to visit while there. We went to Heaps Sausages for lunch and I would go again.
Trafalgar Square – A 35 minute walk from the Luna Simone. Very busy and a nice walk around to see the hub of activity. Lots of ways to get there and lots of ways to leave. No shortage of pubs and restaurants in this area.
Thames River Tour – I really enjoyed this river tour. It was narrated so points of interest were mentioned and you can get off at the Tower of London and do your touring there before returning. You get a different perspective of the city from the water and you see Parliament, Big Ben, Westminster and the main bridges. Great way to spend a sunny afternoon.
Harrods – There is a Tube stop right at Harrods so no issue getting there for all your shopping needs. I made sure not to touch anything. The shopping is very high-end and a bit outside of what I would pay for things. In the lower level you should check out a memorial to Lady Diana and Dodi Fayed as it is well done.
Natural History Museum – This is in the same area as Harrods and is easy to get to. If you are short of time, I would not worry about going here as I did not find this to be anything special.
London is an easy city to return to and soak up the history and experiences.
My second cup is now empty……………………..
Italy
We travelled to Italy with another couple in September 2014. We covered the central / northern parts – Florence, Siena, San Gimignano, Levanto (including Cinque Terre) and Milan before flying to London for a few days.
We booked everything ourselves and found that three nights in each place worked nicely. Bed & Breakfasts were easy to find on Trip Advisor and I made the point to make direct contact with the owners. I will provide links to the B & B’s we liked.
No need to worry about what wine to order in the restaurants as the house wine is quite good and we were never disappointed with the house Chianti. I think it is a crime to serve poor wine in Italy!
We used trains and rented a car for a few days to get around. Unless you book a tour, you will need a car to explore the Chianti and Tuscany regions. They are wonderful to see with small towns and rolling hills and valleys.
We started off in Florence and no need for a car there as it will just get in the way. From Florence, we took the train to Siena and that is where we picked up a car for six days. We covered the Chianti and Tuscany regions from Siena and San Gimignano. We dropped the car back in Siena and took the train from Siena to Pisa, with one train change Empoli. We toured the Leaning Tower of Pisa before boarding a train for Levanto which is at the north end of Cinque Terre (Five Villages). From Levanto we took a train to Milan to complete our vacation in Italy. This all turned out to be a great route and we stayed a total of 14 nights in Italy – three nights in each city with the exception of Milan where we only had two nights.
- Car and Trains
Renting and driving a car in Italy is different from in Canada and the United States. The base rental rates seem attractive until you start adding in the various insurance charges. Some of the insurance is mandatory as part of the rental and some is optional. We took the “super” insurance to provide greater peace of mind and overall we thought the total rental price was reasonable. They have a lot of accidents in Italy so I think you need all the insurance you can get. We did not want to rely on our credit card insurance coverages or our auto insurance at home.
The cars are standard transmission so be prepared for something you may not be used to. The roads are fairly narrow and there is not a straight piece of road in Italy. The curves and hills are great in the country and not so nice in the urban areas. The towns and cities were built on hills for fortification purposes hundreds of years ago and they have not flattened out for the current tourists. In fact, you cannot drive in the central part of many of the cities like Florence and Siena. Parking is also an issue, particularly as you want to get close to the tourist attractions in the cities. If you drive or park in prohibited places, expect to receive a photo ticket that the car rental agency will forward to you upon your return home. This did not happen to us; however, people we know got nine tickets mailed to them.
The streets are not on the “square” so if you are used to “streets” and “avenues” that run in consistent directions with a sense of organization, you will be out of luck. The hills, curves and back lanes have no obvious plan to them. There are lots of “round-a-bouts” with sometimes five ways to get off. Throw in the Italian street names that use at least 10 to 20 vowels and consonants, and you have driving in Siena. A GPS may have helped as the map did not. The gas attendant we stopped to ask some direction from in the pouring rain was rude and not helpful.
Kathy and our friend were laughing in the back seat as I maneuvered around Siena and now this does seem funny – it was all stressful at the time. Everything turned out good with our rental car and I advice you to be very careful if you intend on renting a car in Italy.
We used the trains to move between cities and towns as well. They were good and we had no issues. There are no trains to San Gimignano and this is a place not to be missed. More on that later.
The train from Florence to Siena was direct and easy to manage. Going from Siena to Levanto required a change in Empoli and also in Pisa. The stop in Pisa allowed us to go to the leaning tower. Do you really need to see another picture? Why not…………….
It is quite a scenic train trip from Pisa to Levanto. We went by Carrara where the marble came from for the “David”. We travelled past Cinque Terre without seeing the Villages as they are right on the coast.
Levanto to Milan was a crowded train ride. The train had separate seating compartments with assigned seating. There were six people to a compartment, three on each side, and it was cozy as our luggage had to go above. Best consider one suitcase each plus a small backpack for the trip.
We liked the trains and have also used them in France, Ireland and the United Kingdom.
- Florence
Florence has to be one of the most interesting cities I have been to. It is a good city for walking and the galleries and museums are spectacular. Michelangelo’s David is a highlight beyond compare and worth the trip to Florence all by itself. There is a market where you can barter for leather goods and souvenirs and the park overlooking the City is very nice.
We stayed at a B & B that was an easy walk for us to central Florence for the tourist attractions. There were good restaurants in the area as well as bus service. There was a winding staircase up to our rooms at the B & B and the host was helpful with suitcases. The room was quite large for Europe and very quiet. We always book accommodation that has in-room bathrooms and this one was fine. Keep in mind the age of these cities and buildings. You can get quite a variety of accommodation in Europe. Here is the contact information for the B & B.
1900 Arte Vita
http://www.1900artevita.com/
VIALE RAFFAELLO SANZIO
50124 FIRENZE
Ph +393471252290 / +393496434924
The breakfast was continental, which is very typical in Europe. Do not expect much, if any, meat options. Nothing special, typical croissants, cheese and fruit. This turned out to be a good location for us and we would stay here again.
- Siena
Siena is built on a hill and the central part is not open for driving or parking. Very nice city to visit and one day is enough to cover the main attractions. You need at least another day to drive around the Chianti region to the north of Siena. Take your time and it is well worth it.
We stayed at a B & B just outside of Siena and would not stay there again. It was okay but I think there are better options to be found. You need a car in this area if you hope to explore the city and region.
The train and train station worked well for coming in and leaving Siena.
- San Gimignano
San Gimignano was another highlight for us in Italy. There is no train service here so you will need a car or go on a tour bus.
We stayed at a B & B “I Coppi” about a 10 to 15 minute walk into the town. The parking was good at the B & B and the views of the valley were spectacular. We sat outside with our wine and took in the scenery. This is the place to stay.
We were with friends so we booked the two rooms on the lower level of the house and there was an adjoining sitting area. Lots of room and comfortable. Breakfast was an exceptional continental with eggs made to your liking. The owner and her mother served the breakfast and it was more than enough. The conversation was pleasant as well. They also sell bottles of wine and the price was fair. Very convenient to enjoy on the well set out patio overlooking the valley.
There is no doubt we would stay here again if we come back. It was not expensive and the location is perfect. Below is the link to the website.
The town can be explored in a day and the restaurants for lunch and super are good. There is a torture museum that is interesting, but not suitable for everyone. The gelato will make your afternoon and they say it is world-famous! There are shops and churches to visit. It does get busy in the late morning as the tourist buses roll in.
The drive in the Tuscany area around San Gimignano took a full day. Get a map and start driving. We went to Volterra and other small towns. No problem finding a lunch place and a cold Moretti beer. We liked the Moretti better than the Peroni. The colours in September were wonderful and this is where the hills and valleys are special. On one gravel back road that I was not keen on trying, we came across a dog herding sheep in a valley. These two photos give a sense of the beauty of the countryside.
- Levanto and the Cinque Terre
This is a place we could have used another day to enjoy the town. We spent our two full days visiting the Cinque Terre (Five Villages) by boat and train and really did not get to see the town the way we wanted. Levanto is on the north end of the Cinque Terre and is a really good place to stay for exploring the Five Villages.
The service provided by our B & B was excellent. The owner met us at the train and took us to the B & B. On the first night he also took us downtown for supper and picked us up. There recommendations for restaurants was very good. The other two nights we walked downtown and back for supper and it was no problem for us. When it was time to leave, he drove us back to the train station. Talk about first class service! We had their only two rooms and they were spacious and comfortable. The continental breakfast was provided on the deck outside our rooms. The contact information for the B & B is as follows.
Affittacamere La Lanterna Sopra il Moggia.
Levanto, Italy (next to cinqueterre national park).
Case Sparse Ridarolo 10
19015 Levanto (Sp)
Telefono + 393475455803
Fax +39 0187 1672057
email : affittacamerelanterna@gmail.com
website : www.affittacamerelanterna.com
I’m not sure pictures can even do justice to the Cinque Terre. You can access the Villages by boat, by train and by walking. They are connected by walking; however, a couple of trails were closed because of slide material that blocked the trails. Best check before venturing out. The trails are up and down and you should have good walking shoes and water. If walking is not for you, the boats and train works well and we used both. The Villages are neat to visit and there are shops and restaurants to take care of you and your money.
- Milan
I liked Milan, whereas, Kathy was not as much inclined sit is very big. We arrived by train and had a B & B close to the train station that worked well. Very quiet and no issues. There were good restaurants within walking distance and the underground metro was easy for us to use.
The B & B was the BioCity Hotel and it was quite modern as you can see from the bathroom picture below. The price was reasonable and the breakfast was excellent. The contact address is.
We took the metro to see the Cathedral and check out shopping. The metro stop was right in front as we came up from the underground station. There was lots of people in the square and you best be careful for pick pockets as it seemed many people were just hanging around with no obvious purpose. If you look at the following picture closely, you will see video advertising on the side of the Cathedral. Kind of sad because the building is very nice. There were high-end shops next to the Cathedral as well as restaurants and a great ice cream shop. Needless to say, we opted for the ice cream.
Two weeks in Italy and we just touched a few places as there are far more to explore. This was a great trip and one that will stand out for a long time.
My second cup is now empty…………………………..